Member of:



Certified AKC CGC Evaluator and S.T.A.R
Puppy Evaluator



| |
So you think you want to get a cute Doberman puppy...
Don't worry we all start somewhere and obviously some of us are more prepared
than others to deal with raising a cute Doberman puppy. Once upon a time I was a
first time Doberman owner too. What we care about most at Family Dobes is
helping to ensure you have a positive experience with your first Doberman puppy,
or any other Doberman puppy for that matter. Much of the success you have with
your future Doberman puppy will be in the preparation you make before you get
your Doberman puppy. After your Doberman puppy arrives, or your older trained
Doberman, success is ensured by consistent and fair rules and boundaries, close
interaction and bond, and a clear training goal and plan to get there. We all
start our desire of getting a Doberman puppy with the idea of a well trained
Doberman being the end product just as Hollywood has shown us on shows such as
Magnum P.I. or the daring Doberman series (which I love by the way). It is
important to start with that end goal in mind (see 7 habits of highly effective
people), but you will also need a plan to get you there. As the Cliché has often
stated, if you fail to plan you plan to fail. With dog training things happen so
fast that if you have not planned ahead of time how to react to something your
Doberman may do, it will be too late when it finally happens. So lets start with
a written checklist, something tangible you can print and check off as a primer
to your written training plan.
Prepare your home for the arrival of your Doberman puppy.
The first things you will need to decide prior to the
arrival of your Doberman puppy, are simple things like:
Where will the Doberman puppy sleep? Is your Doberman
puppy going to be allowed to sleep on the bed as a full grown dog? If not do not
make the mistake of letting your Doberman puppy sleep on the bed while young.
Your Doberman puppy will not be able to understand why one day it is allowed and
the next it is not. The same hold true for furniture, no Doberman puppies on
couches if the adult Doberman will not be allowed on the couch. It is all part
of being fair and consistent with your Doberman. Will your Doberman puppy sleep
in crate for housetraining or be on a leash close by?
Here is a link to housetraining on the forum. Also our
online
training resources cover housetraining as well. Is the Doberman puppy going
to have a bed or crate in the bedroom? If so steel your nerves for some long
nights just as with children :) It is easier to get through if you expect what
is coming and realize it doesn't last a long if you don't give in. Like my uncle
always said, deaf peoples kids don't cry. There is no reward, they have to seek
other ways to get attention. Your Doberman puppy will quickly learn as well that
you don't respond to barking, howling and whining if you don't give in. With
really persistent barkers it is wise to put the crate as far away from your room
as possible, and be sure to reward the Doberman puppy by letting them out when
they are quiet. Your Doberman puppy will not be able to go all night without
going out for a bathroom break, so set an alarm at age appropriate intervals,
wait for a quiet moment and take the Doberman puppy out to the designated Potty
spot.
Where will the Doberman puppy go to the bathroom? One of the most useful
things to teach your Doberman is to only use one spot for Potty duties. This is
easy to teach your Doberman if you start from the first moment and remain
consistent. Pick a spot in the yard that will be easy to clean, easy to access
in all weather and at all times of day. Every time you take the Doberman out to
Potty take them to that spot and don't let them stray from it. If they happen to
poop somewhere else in the yard pick it up and take it to the Potty spot until
they get an understanding of that being the place to go. It makes cleanup much
easier and allows people to share the yard with less risk of Doberman mines :)
Where will the Doberman be allowed to play? Keep in mind that female
Dobermans when the pee will create brown spots on the lawn, hence the above
suggestion of a designated spot. Also a lot of dog traffic can quickly damage
lawns. Unattended Dobermans that are bored will find neat games to entertain
themselves such as "Dig a Den" or "excavate the irrigation system" or "prune the
trees/shrubs/flowers with my teeth" See your Doberman really believes it is
doing something beneficial, they want to be doing something so we need to direct
our Doberman puppies and dogs or allow the natural consequences to follow. This
hold true indoors for our Dobermans as wee with cords, base boards, furniture,
stuffed animals, etc. There is a legitimate need for our Doberman puppies to
chew so it is important to set boundaries on where, when and what.
Where will the Doberman puppy be forbidden? Many people have off limits areas
or things where they will not want the Doberman puppy to be. If you have such
things or places in your home, it is important to prepare ahead of time. For
example at my house toilets are part of the forbidden areas, so I leave bathroom
doors closed. Furniture is forbidden in our home, so the Dobermans have
comfortable dog beds to sleep on as an alternative. Also my wife wants the dogs
to stay out of her craft room, so the door remains closed. In the kitchen dogs
are not allowed on counters, in the fridge or cupboards or on the dining room
table. This takes training boundaries as well as giving your Dobermans an
opportunity to be successful by not leaving steaks out on the counter while you
run to the store for example. How many of us resist similar temptations? I love
my Dobermans as much as anyone, but at the end of the day they are dogs, and I
am a person. Dobermans don't think and reason the same way that we do and do not
have ethics and morals to guide their actions and thoughts. They are driven by
instinct and trained behavior. Give your Doberman the opportunity to be
successful by teaching them what you expect from them, as well as having
realistic expectations understanding they are dogs not people. Most importantly
understand that they are no machines. Most of the frustrated Doberman owner
calls I get both from people with our Champion bred European Dobermans as well
as people who bought a Doberman puppy from a pet store or breeder who won't
answer their calls and questions, all are in regard to the idea that they don't
have a remote control for their Doberman. Even if we sell a trained adult
Doberman Pinscher it is still a living animal that does not always sit perfectly
when you tell it to for as long as you tell it to. Do your kids do that? Do you
do that when people tell you what to do? Please remember your Doberman puppy is
a living animal the same as you are and learning is a lifelong process for them
the same as it is for you. Be fair and realistic in your expectations and you
have a formula for success with your Doberman puppy.
What toys will the Doberman be allowed? Again our Doberman puppies have a
need to chew while they are teething, and our Dobermans have a need throughout
their lives to chew to keep their teeth clean, so it is important to give them
things they are allowed to chew on, that they want to chew on. I prefer natural
bones such as Bovine femurs and knuckle bones. Get them straight from the
butcher with meat, fat and connective tissue still attached. Plan a place for
the chewing that is easy to cleanup. The tissue on the bone helps clean teeth
and is a good food source. It is important to get bones that are too big to
ingest, and that have not been cooked, sterilized or heat treated in any way.
This makes the bones brittle and powerful chewers such as the Doberman Pinscher
can chew them up. The sharp fragments that get ingested can really run up a vet
bill. Never give any type of poultry bone, they are hollow and splinter very
easily. If you are a proponent of raw feeding you will take issue with this but
you can also read my opinions about
raw
feeding here. I am anti Rawhide because it is basically leather and teaches
the Doberman that leather makes a good chew toy. That is something I don't want
my Doberman to get into their head at all. Rawhide causes digestive upset
as well, and the chipped/compressed rawhide can cause blockages when they take a
big drink after chewing it up. When you think about it, Dobermans consider
"toys" anything they can chew/tug etc since that is how they experiment with
their world. They like to eat, and they like to chew, but they don't consider
things like a chess set a toy, unless they are eating it of course. Consider
that when purchasing toys. I also separate toys from training tools. The
motivational things I use to train my Dobermans, such as floppy Frisbees, Linen
tugs, or Orbee balls are things that I turn into the most fun objects on earth,
but they are only fun, when I am part of the game, and they are only part of the
game when we are training. Then they get put away until the next training
session. Dobermans that are allowed to self reward themselves with many toys any
time they choose, seldom see the need to work for you when you want them to
work. So it is important to give them enough entertainment that they are not
board, but not so much that your Doberman no longer needs you to be entertained.
What is your Doberman puppy going to eat? This is a months long
discussion in itself as there are so many opinion on nutrition and diet. Lets
cover the first one with which no one has an argument. Doberman puppies need
fresh clean water. I do know people that only give their Doberman puppies
bottled water, and depending on the quality of water where you live, this might
be realistic. The point is they will need access to fresh clean water as the
most important nutrient in their diet. When trying to housetrain your Doberman
puppy when you offer water has a lot to do with the success of your training,
but common sense dictates that when your Doberman is working/playing their
intake requirement is increased and when the weather is warmer it increases as
well. Do not forget that water freezes in many parts of the country in winter,
and licking ice or eating snow are not a substitute for fresh clean drinking
water. It takes the body more energy to melt ice and snow than the body gets in
return. When it comes to feed there are so many opinions and most are very
strongly held. I will share mine, and understand it as that, it is just my
educated opinion based on what I have studied over the years as well as what I
have tried, and learning from my own mistakes as well as the mistakes of others.
It is a given that most everyone you talk to about Doberman nutrition is going
to disagree with me and with each other. Especially your Vet. Vets often sell
Dog food as a profit center for the clinic, so obviously they want you to buy
the food they sell They are also in the business of selling surgery, medication,
vaccinations etc. So keep that in mind anytime they make any recommendations to
you unless your lucky enough to have honest and qualified vets like mine. I have
a relationship of trust with my vets, they trust me and I trust them and we work
together for the best interest of my Dobermans. My philosophy on Doberman
nutrition comes from the basic belief that although Dobermans are limited
omnivores, they are primarily carnivores. I only relented to the idea that they
were limited omnivores instead of carnivores that happened upon vegetative
matter with study done on mastication (chewing). Carnivores masticate up and
down to rip and tear their food, and herbivores (vegetarians) masticate side to
side to grind their food. The dogs jaw moves principally up and down to bite and
tear at meat products, but has some side to side movement. This doesn't mean the
Doberman runs into the corn field to eat corn, the Doberman runs into the
cornfield to eat the pheasants that have been eating the corn. In the process of
eating the bird (whole mind you if caught live, or in pieces from a carcass)
they get some corn and vegetative matter that was in the system of the bird. The
Doberman is metabolically set up to digest and utilize some of these nutrients,
but the Doberman does not need a lot of Carbohydrate since they can metabolize
fat and protein directly to energy quite efficiently unlike us humans that need
Carbs for quick energy. Although I still believe God created me as a carnivore
but that is another discussion :) The important thing to understand about that
is that Plant based products are cheap to put into mass made kibble, whereas
meat based proteins and fats are expensive. This is why "Cheap" foods can not be
nutritionally complete, and good foods can not be cheap. Basically anything you
can buy in a grocery store or big box type store, is not going to be the best
diet. It does not mean the dog won't survive eating it (although those types of
foods have the highest recall rate) it means the dog won't thrive on those
diets. My dogs have a high energy requirement (remember this means energy from
protein and fat) because of the work they do in training and our performance
venues. For my dogs I have to feed diets very high in fat and protein, but the
protein has to come from animal products, not green beans for example. The Diet
that I feed is Royal Canin. About Fifty percent of all nutritional information
published is put out by Royal Canin. They do extensive research and are the most
widely published nutritional company. There are other good diets out there,
and there are a lot of really bad ones. You need to balance your Dobermans
Nutritional requirements with available feeds and budget and find a program that
works for you. Keep in mind our Doberman puppy health guarantee is only valid if
you feed an approved feed, so if you are luck enough to have one of our
outstanding Dobermans, consult with us before choosing a feed. I am also a
believer that we don't give wet food to dogs (softened food for young Doberman
puppies being an exception) Canned foods and wet foods generally have a high
sodium content, and you are paying a lot of money for water. The worst however
is that the wet foods stick to their teeth causing all kinds of Dental problems.
They do not need wet food, and it is not good for them. The other important
factor in feeding is how often and how much. How often is dictated by the
nutrient requirement of your Doberman, and the available nutrients in the feed.
You need to feed your Doberman enough that you can feel their ribs when running
your hand down their side, but you should not be able to see them when your
Doberman is standing freely. When they are skinny feed them some more, and when
your Doberman is overweight work them some more and reduce their calorie intake.
Obesity in a Doberman can cause problems in other areas such as Heart, and
kidneys. Dobermans are deep chested dogs, and therefore prone to Gastric
Torsions. You want to break up their feeding into at least two meals a day, and
limit their activity after a meal to prevent this. Just like not swimming right
after you eat :)
Here is some very valuable nutrition Information
http://products.royalcanin.us/media/267/maxi_large_breed_puppy_32.pdf
What will your Doberman puppy be allowed to Eat and drink out of? I
prefer stainless steel food and water bowls for my Dobermans because they are
very sturdy and durable as well as easy to clean and sterilize. Many people use
Dishwasher safe plastic bowls for their Doberman puppies, but these can be
chewed. I also prefer the type of stainless bowls that can't be tipped over my a
young and playful Doberman Puppy. If you have had a Doberman in the past, you
will also realize why I only offer water to my Dobermans outside. It is amazing
the amount of water a Doberman can hold in it's cheeks as it walks away from the
water bowl until it finds your lap, or important papers or other such things :)
Many people believe in using raised feeding stations for Dobermans as well to
reduce wear and impact on the neck. I do think this is a good idea, though I
have seen many Dobermans eat off the floor for a lifetime and not have nay
complications, if your Doberman is predisposed to cervical problems or wobblers,
this could postpone problems at least and therefore is worth considering.
Who will you use for Veterinary care? Let me start by saying one Vet
is never enough. You do need to have a primary Vet for all the stuff that can be
scheduled and put on a calendar when it works for both of you, but you also need
to have a Vet for Emergencies or for when you can't get to your regular Vet. As
I stated earlier, it is important to have a good working relationship with your
Vet, and a relationship that is based on trust. Don't just take your Doberman
puppy anywhere, ask around for referrals, take time to meet the Vet personally
as well as their staff. Make sure you feel comfortable with their clinic, their
qualifications and their staff. Sometimes the best clinic in the world may be
ruined by a bad receptionist or technician. Make sure the Vet you choose is
familiar with Dobermans specifically and the ailments and diseases that are
common with them. If you are getting a new Doberman puppy and planning on
cropping ears, you will need to find a Vet that specializes in good Doberman ear
crops. Not all Vets are the same in this regard, Doberman ear cropping is more
art than science, and I would never trust a Vet to crop ears on my Doberman
without seeing pictures of their past work. I am blessed that my Ear Vet also
happens to be an outstanding Reproduction Vet and a very qualified primary care
Vet. Be sure to ask a lot of questions and avoid Vets that are put off by your
questions, this is your Doberman not theirs, and you need someone who
understands that you want to be involved in the process. You should also
consider pet health insurance for your new Doberman, plans can be really
affordable, really focus on prevention for overall good health and can reduce
your overall financial burden for health care especially in emergencies.
Introducing your Doberman to your home. Do you have other pets in the
home? If you do remember they were there before the new Doberman came and they
may not be as anxious for the new Doberman as
you are. You are essentially bringing a stranger in to their home. For other
dogs in the home, I recommend letting the existing dog meet your new Doberman at
a Neutral area such as a park (only if you can ensure no sick dogs have been
there) and then after a period of play they can come home together and it is
more like a friend coming home for a sleepover (that never leaves lol!) instead
of an intruder into the pack. If you are trying to get your new Doberman to get
along with cats, you need to understand some fundamental things. Cats are a prey
object to dogs. Dobermans have it hard wired in their DNA. All of their carnal
and primal makeup is that cats are food for dogs. When you understand that, you
see the importance of never letting the cat run away from the dog one time, or
the primal switch is activated and a pattern begins that is not easily broken.
You can never allow the Doberman to chase the cat indoors or out. The method I
recommend sounds harsh, but is quite effective. The only time a cat will ever
fight a dog is when it can not get away. I prefer to introduce Dobermans to cats
in a place the cat can not run away. I lock all of us in the bathroom. If the
puppy is too curious and overbearing, the cat is going to fight back, and a
young Doberman puppy is no match for a scared adult cat. Of course this sets up
an adversarial relationship, but it is better than the cat being on the menu.
With a good cat and good supervision with your Doberman puppy the introduction
can go quite well and the two may become fast friends. With people in the home,
it is important not to overwhelm your Doberman all at once. Remember everything
is brand new to them, new smells, new colors, new arrangements, new people,
there is nothing familiar to them and they were just taken from their mom and
siblings. Give them some space and be patient, let them check out the new family
members by allowing the Doberman to go smell the people instead of being
overwhelmed with ten hands chasing after them for a chance to pet the new
Doberman. I prefer to lead the new Doberman through house room by room and let
the puppy explore new things. This way I am still in control and I am still the
leader. Again because I want the new Doberman to be successful, I don't give
them free reign of the house yet. They are allowed into the home from "safe
areas" that I have created a little at a time as they gain my trust and respect
my boundaries.
Is your home Doberman puppy proofed? As stated above, we want to give
our Dobermans every possible chance of success in the home. This includes
realizing that puppies are going to go through housetraining stages. There will
be accidents in the house as the puppy learns, but you can choose where they are
so they can be easier to clean up and take care of. Doberman puppies are going
to go through teething. It is natural, they have to chew. If you don't want
things chewed up, supervise the puppy and help them understand what they can
chew on. put things out of the way or out of reach that you don't want chewed
up. Keep things that would be dangerous to your Doberman puppy away from them
such as cleaners and other chemicals, and cords. Get down on the floor and see
how different things look from down there, and you will have the perspective a
Doberman puppy may have. You will see things that look enticing that you would
not have thought of before.
You also need to know that
there is an animal poison control number you can
call, unfortunately they really gouge you on a
per minute fee schedule, but they do have good
information when you are in a bind. My advice
though is always to call the vet first. The
number for the call is
(888) 426-4435 Have it on the
fridge or somewhere handy
J
Currently their rate is now $60 per call at the
time of this writing. Their website can be found
here: http://www.aspca.org/
So without calling them
first, here are some lists of plants known to be
toxic to dogs:
Toxic Plants
This list contains
plants that have been reported as having
systemic effects on animals and/or intense
effects on the gastrointestinal tract.
Please note that
the information contained in our plant lists is
not meant to be all-inclusive, but rather a
compilation of the most frequently encountered
plants. If you think that your animal is ill or
may have ingested a poisonous substance,
contact your local veterinarian or our 24-hour
emergency poison hotline directly at
1-888-426-4435.
A
B
C
D
E
F
G
H
I
J
K
L
M
N
O
P
Q
R
S
T
V
W
Y
Thousands of dogs and cats needlessly suffer and
many die each year by accidental ingestion of
household poisons, including pesticides, popular
houseplants, medications and common foods. The
ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center, the only
animal poison control center in North America
offers advice to pet owners about the many
household products that can be dangerous and
even deadly to their four-legged family member.
-
Mothballs, potpourri oils, coffee grounds,
homemade play dough, fabric softener sheets,
dishwashing detergent, batteries,
cigarettes, alcoholic drinks, pennies and
hand and foot warmers could be dangerous for
your pet.
-
Keep all prescription and over-the-counter
medications out of your pets' reach,
preferably in closed/locked cabinets above
the counter. Painkillers, cold medicines,
antidepressants, vitamins and diet pills can
be lethal to animals, even in small doses.
-
Read all of the information on the label
before using a product on your pet or in
your home. If a product is for use only on
dogs, it should never be used on cats; if a
product is for use only on cats, it should
never be used on dogs.
-
Be aware of the plants you have in your home
and yard. The ingestion of azalea, oleander,
sago palm or yew plant material by your pet
can be fatal. Easter lily, day lily, tiger
lily and some other lily species can cause
kidney failure in cats.
-
Make sure your pets do not go on lawns or in
gardens treated with fertilizers, herbicides
or insecticides until they have dried
completely. Always store such products in
areas that are inaccessible to your pets. If
you are uncertain about the usage of any
product, ask the manufacturer and/or your
veterinarian for instructions.
-
Be alert for antifreeze/coolant leaking from
your vehicle. Animals are attracted to the
sweet taste and ingesting just a small
amount can cause an animal's death.
Consider using animal-friendly products that
use propylene glycol rather than those
containing ethylene glycol.
-
When using rat, mouse, snail or slug baits,
or ant or roach traps, place the products in
areas that are inaccessible to your pet.
Some bait contains sweet smelling inert
ingredients, such as jelly, peanut butter or
sugar that can attract your pets.
·
Although many people are aware that chocolate is
toxic to cats and dogs, it's something that is
commonly left on a table or counter top. Dogs
may tear into a box of candy when the
opportunity presents itself. In large
quantities, chocolate causes
coma and
death. In lesser quantities, it will cause
gastrointestinal problems including diarrhea.
The degree of toxicity depends on the weight of
the animal and the amount and type of chocolate
consumed. Semi-sweet and bakers chocolate, for
instance, contain more
theobromine
than regular chocolate, making them even more
toxic to animals. Dogs love chocolate, so don't
let taste be a test of what is
healthy.
Anything containing cocoa or chocolate should be
avoided.
·
Grapes &
Raisins:
Though it isn't clear to scientists just what
makes grapes and raisins toxic to both cats and
dogs, even a relatively small amount can damage
the kidneys. For this reason it's unwise to feed
these to your pet, even if small amounts are
tolerated. Also avoid giving bits of cookie or
other foods that contain raisins.
·
Garlic,
Onions, and Powders:
Whether fresh, cooked or powdered, garlic and/or
onions can be found among the ingredients of
many prepared meals, including baby food. Garlic
and onions can be toxic to cats and dogs because
sulfoxides and disulfides found in them can
damage red blood cells and lead to
anemia.
Onions are more problematic than garlic, but
both should be avoided. If preparing a meal for
yourself that will contain garlic or onions,
consider preparing a side portion without these
ingredients for your animals.
·
Macadamia Nuts:
Macadamia nuts are soft, light-colored nuts
often used in cookie recipes. They are
considered toxic to dogs because they tend to
cause gastrointestinal upsets, lethargy,
vomiting and muscle tremors or stiffness.
·
Mushrooms:
Various species of mushrooms are toxic to dogs,
and can cause shock and death. Effects will
differ depending on the type ingested, but avoid
feeding any type. Pluck "backyard mushrooms"
that might sprout on the lawn, as these are
known to be toxic to canines.
·
Tomatoes and tomato plants:
Tomatoes of all kinds are toxic to cats, as are
parts of the
tomato
plant. Ingesting as little as a cherry tomato
can cause severe gastrointestinal upset.
·
Chicken Bones:
Though not toxic, chicken bones can get stuck in
the roof of the mouth, throat and intestines,
and should be avoided, according to many
veterinarians. Splinters of chicken bones can
also become lodged internally.
·
Xylitol:
This is a sugar substitute found in many types
of candy, chewable vitamins, sugarless baked
goods, and in sugarless gums like Trident™ and
Orbit™. As little as three grams (e.g. about
five pieces of gum) can kill a 65 pound dog,
with smaller dogs succumbing to just one or two
sticks. Within 15-30 minutes of ingesting
xylitol a dog's
insulin
levels will surge and blood sugar levels will
drop, resulting in lethargy and loss of balance.
Permanent brain damage can occur and without
treatment liver failure will result in death
within 24 hours. Diabetics that might have
sugarless baked goods or other sugarless
products in the
home should
be especially careful to read all ingredients
before sharing food.
·
If a dog should ingest a product that contains
xylitol call your veterinarian or animal
emergency services immediately. You might be
instructed to induce vomiting if the dog is
already having a reaction or if the office is
more than 30 minutes away. Do not leave products
containing xylitol within a dog's reach.
·
Other foods
to avoid include raw potatoes, especially those
containing green spots; turkey skin;
nutmeg; and
anything with
caffeine,
including
tea.
Alcohol and hops should also be avoided as
alcohol poisoning can lead to coma and death. Do
not allow your pet to rummage through the trash,
as moldy food contains toxins that can cause
serious illness.
·
Since many of the signs of toxicity are similar,
consult your veterinarian without delay if your
pet appears distressed, listless or in pain.
Bloody stools or vomiting are also possible
signs of toxic poisoning. Gastrointestinal
problems can lead to gas build-up until the
stomach becomes distended or bloated and hard to
the touch. This is a painful condition that can
cause the stomach to burst if not treated. The
good news is that, in most cases, treatment for
toxic poisoning can be successful if
administered in time.
|
|