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A word about Value
It is my opinion that you really do get what you pay for in a dog. When you
purchase a car, they are priced (through honest people anyway) according to
their overall mechanical and cosmetic condition, how they have been cared for,
what features they have etc. Thankfully when buying cars there are buying guides
to help determine the worth. In Dogs there is no guide to go by. Often I am
asked why there is such a difference in the value of my pups, and not only my pups,
but between my pups and someone else's. It really comes down to value, what are
you getting for your dollar, and naturally the environmental factors such
as supply and demand influence it as well. I have seen Dobes for sale in today's
market for as low as $300. I have seen them as high as $75,000. I have also seen
people turn down $300,000 or more on really outstanding dogs. The differences
break down roughly like this. Most important is the one thing most first time
buyers overlook, that is the "quality" of the breeder. Do they have an
understanding of the breed, genetics, and health? Do they have clear breeding
goals that they are trying to achieve? Do they have experience? Was this a
planned breeding with a goal to get closer to their model of perfection? Most
importantly, are they going to be there for you after the purchase? It is my
opinion that $300 pups come from accidental breeding or deliberate breeding
between two dogs that happen to be Dobermans. Usually the breeding goal is cash.
Generally it will be a first time breeder with little or no experience or
education. Again this is just my opinion. Generally you will find that the pups
will be worth what their parents were worth. It is very rare to find a a world
champion quality pup from two $300 dogs. This type of breeder generally has not
had any health testing, and likely doesn't have a good vet for regular check-ups
and help along the way. This kind of care is very expensive, and the cost must
be recouped somewhere. I admit 15 years ago, I raised $300 pups. I learned a lot
over the years and developed my program and my education. I have learned that I
would lose a great deal of money if I were to breed great quality dogs, from
outstanding parents, care for them right and place them in their new homes for
$300. It can't be done. Most importantly, I have learned if you have a problem
with your $300 dog a year later, the breeder can not be contacted, cannot remedy
the problem, and won't answer your calls about health and training issues. They
only answer calls asking about their puppies for sale. Breeder support is more
important in many cases than the pup you choose. They have been through it all,
they can answer most of your questions, and if you stump them, they know where
to go to get the answers. More importantly, they are willing to do all of that.
Naturally that time and dedication has value, and has real costs associated with
it. Start there first when determining value, then consider the face value of
pup. My pups are available at a dollar amount according to what I think their potential is.
Some dogs will be better athletes than others. Generally those traits are highly
heritable, meaning if mom and dad are great athletes their offspring should be
as well. Some dogs have better conformation than others making them ideal for
show. those traits likewise are highly heritable. Some dogs are lucky enough to
have both great conformation and athletic ability. Also important is their
genetic potential which becomes a deeper genetic study that I can explain if you
want to understand more. Pedigrees are important to some people and that to can
influence price. Based on which female produced the pups, we know
what to expect from those litters, and that is how we price our pups. What will
the demand be for this bloodline, this conformation type, their temperament, the
accomplishments of their ancestors as well as their own etc. We only produce
pups that will meet our program goals, if they don't we don't continue breeding
those females. We have given up many wonderful dogs that did produce great pups
this last year because we can only feed so many, and the current girls are that
much better. Determine what is important to you with your dog, what you want to
accomplish, and then see if that type of dog will fit your budget. If you want
to win an international championship, expect to pay more for your pup. If all
you want is a great pet, pick one from a breeder with great support, and great
health programs and a replacement policy. We want you to get the dog that best
meets your needs, and we want you to know you got your money's worth.
Deposits: A Deposit holds your place in line for a
particular litter. It is also
100% transferable to another litter. In the event you opt not to take the pup,
and we were able to provide that pup, the deposit is 75% refundable.
A word about Age
An adult dog can shortcut many problems and steps in dog ownership, but can
come with it's pitfalls as well. Young adults and older pups can also be great
choices for some situations. Talk to us about your situation and expectations so
we can make sound recommendations. Most all books will say it is irresponsible
to let pups go before 8 weeks of age. In fact the book I send you says that as
well. But when you read training books from top trainers, and animal
behaviorists, you will find a different story. Dogs learn many things from the
mother and the littermates, some of them vital to survival, others interfere
with further training. Dog on dog aggression for example is learned by
roughhousing with litter mates too rough too long. At the same time, it builds
confidence and teaches them what is acceptable interaction. Here are some
excerpt from some of my favorite books.
The first 16 weeks of a dog's life
are a period of tremendous development. For the first 21 days the mental
capacity of a puppy is zero. During the 21st through 28th day, the senses
(seeing, hearing, smelling, and first emotional and social stress within the
litter) begin to develop. At this time, the puppy first starts to learn and
should be introduced to gentle socialization. On approximately the 28th day of
life, the puppy's brain "turns on." From the 28th to 49th day, his nervous
system and brain develop to adult form. The seventh week of life is most
critical. This is the best time to wean a puppy from the litter so that he
develops an attachment to his new owner. The seventh to twelfth week should
introduce gentle and playful early obedience (such as kindergarten puppy
training). A dogs character is set by what he learned up through the 16th week
of life.
-Search
and rescue dogs training the K9 hero second edition
"...So what is the ideal time for your puppy to make the transition to it's
new home? All the behavioral studies that have been done recommend the 49th day
give or take a day or two. These studies have also shown that dogs begin to
learn at 3 weeks of age. At 7 weeks old their brains are neurologically
complete, and all the circuits are wired. Their mind is a blank page, and all
you have to do is fill it with the right information. They won't forget what
they learn in the next few weeks. If you wait until your dog is older, he'll
probably have picked up several bad habits, which means you have to erase the
page and start all over, a much more tedious job than starting when he is a
puppy.
-dog
training for Dummies 2nd edition *This book despite the title is my favorite
book
You can see why it is important to place the dog on time, and if that is not
possible or wanted, the puppy must be raised "under foot" at that point to
ensure proper development. Whether you get one of our dogs or someone else's,
make sure you get the pup at the proper age, or from someone who will bring the
pup up properly so it will reach it's full potential.
A word about Gender
Nearly half of our clients ask us "Which is better a male or a female?" That
is a loaded question if I have ever heard one! I follow it up with questions
about what it is you want your dog to become, what do you expect it to do, what
do you expect to do with it. Males and females are different but not better or
worse. Just like people in some ways. Women typically care more about
relationships, family, etc whereas Men want to talk about jobs, hobbies,
accomplishments etc. I will speak about some generalizations because generally
they are true, however there are many exceptions. Male dogs tend to be more
independent, more concerned about hierarchy, more territorial such as they want
to protect "their" property. In case you didn't already know, we live in their
homes, they allow us to sit on their stuff etc. Females tend to be more people
oriented, less interested in hierarchy, and possessive of their people, not
their property. They own us we don't own them in their minds. A male dog wants
to keep strangers out of the yard, females want to keep strangers away from
their people. Now when you spay and neuter it changes everything because
behavior and temperament are driven by hormones. A neutered male is the calmest
most easy going dog, followed by spayed females, then intact females, then
intact males. So ask yourself how you want the dog to behave, what you want it
to do, and then ask me my opinion. We want to help you get the right dog for
your needs. The right dog is never the wrong color or gender.
A word about registration
All Family Dobes are placed with limited AKC registration, and sometimes that
may take some time due to the foreign transfers etc, but papers are guaranteed.
Full registration is only available on performance or co-ownership contracts
just to make sure you have good mentors along the way to help you make good
decisions and get your health testing done. All dogs will still be eligible to
compete or anything else, you just won't own the full breeding rights right away. This really is a safeguard to help you not make some of
the mistakes I made along the way because no one would mentor me. I say often
education and information are free, but sometimes they can't come all at once. I
can't make anyone a responsible breeder overnight, but given some time and help
and encouragement, the breed can really benefit. Many people ask what is the
difference? Registration terminology: The AKC has several types of registration
we will only discuss the most important two. If your dog or the one you are
looking at does not fall into these two categories, don't by them. Other
registers are also no good if they are not recognized by the AKC. For example
our dogs we bring in from Europe can be registered with the AKC, and we do that.
Dogs with UKC/ACA,CKC etc may or may not be able to get papers with the AKC. In
America as much as the AKC frustrates me, and they do have their weaknesses,
they are still the American standard. You can likewise enroll your dogs with the
United Doberman Club if you are interested in the Schutzhund sport or foreign
dogs. AKC offers full registration which means the dog is eligible for all AKC
sponsored events and programs such as the "Canine Good Citizen" Which I
encourage all of you to get. It is easy enough anyone can get it if they set a
goal and pursue it. It also exposes you to the world of competition which you
may decide you like or not. Full registration most importantly gives you the
right to breed the dog and register their offspring with the AKC. Limited papers
mean you can still compete/show and everything else you just can not register
the offspring if you bred them. The only event they can not compete in is
conformation as it is reserved for breeding animals. For that reason, limited
dogs are usually spayed and neutered. It is also possible to change limited
papers to full, so some people do not "fix" their dogs right away.
A word about Spaying or Neutering
We recommend not "fixing the dog" until 18 months of age anyway because of
health issues such as bladder control. Females that are altered before 18 months
old generally have trouble with bladder control later on. Your vet will tell you
to spay early to prevent things like ovarian or testicular cancer, that will
work, but removing the ovaries or testicles at 4 years old will prevent it as
well, they are gone! At any rate have a good working relationship with your vet,
and make a decision together that you feel comfortable with when it comes to
altering your dog.
A word about ears
There are a lot of good reasons to crop ears, and a lot of good reasons for
floppy ears, you need to decide what you think is best. Dobermans with floppy
ears look less like Dobermans and therefore less intimidating. Dogs that will be
used as therapy dogs or SAR dogs, generally are more accepted by people with
floppy ears. Cropped ears have the Doberman deterrent look to them. I have some
of each. Cropped ears need less cleaning, stay dryer and have fewer infections.
Floppy ears are cheaper, and you don't have to worry that your investment will
be lost if they fall. Whatever you decide, your puppy will come to you floppy
eared. Many breeders have vets that will crop ears at 5 weeks old to help make
the pups more marketable. At five weeks of age, the ears are no bigger than my
thumb nail, and the head is as small as an apple. It is very hard to do a good
crop that way. At 12 weeks of age the ears and head are balanced in their growth
and a very successful crop can be achieved by a good Vet. Ear cropping though is
an art not a science, and you have to trust the artist to some extent. I always
ask to see pictures of previous crops the vet has done. Any artist that is proud
of their work will keep a scrapbook or have dogs available to be seen. If you
like how they turned out, then trust the artist if they want to do the ears
early. We can have our vet do the ears for you, Dr Carl Pew is renown for his
cropping, the only drawback is you don't get any of the follow-up care from the
artist that did the work. You also don't establish a relationship with a vet
near you to help with re-posting the ears. If you haven't done ears often, the
re-posting can be a bear. It isn't good to have a cropped dog with floppy ears,
if you aren't dedicated enough to make the ears stand, don't go down this path.
Dr' Pew is willing to crop at 8 weeks old.
Guarantee
At Family Dobes we have often said we have a health and temperament guarantee.
What we really have is a refund or replacement policy based on certain
conditions. I can guarantee parentage, and the condition the pup leaves my care,
but I can not guarantee how it will turn out in the future; health or otherwise.
We say Guarantee to re-assure the buyer, and add credibility. You will receive a
copy of our refund/replacement policy upon purchase which basically lines out
that we will refund or replace the puppy if it is affected by certain genetic
disorders, or does not work for it's intended purpose.
Health Policy as follows:
Family Dobes guarantees the pup to be free of
Hip Dysplasia (when
raised on approved feed requires receipts for verification),
hypothyroidism, von Willebrands disease (must be verified with Vetgen DNA test,
and be “affected” and have active bleeding issues), wobblers syndrome, and
progressive retinal atrophy
or other genetically
inherited problems that will cause early death to the age of 24 months. Other
diseases not genetically inherited and will not be covered. We recommend having
a very good relationship with your veterinarian and following appropriate
wellness and vaccination schedules. Any health claims must be accompanied by
certification of abnormality from two accredited veterinarians. Breeder may
refund purchase price or replace with similar animal at the breeders discretion
when the original animal is returned to us. All shipping, travel and vet
expenses are the responsibility of the buyer.
Temperament Policy as follows: Family Dobes will Guarantee said animal to have
sufficient temperament to be a working family companion when approved training
schedule and program are followed and documented. Documentation of schedule,
activities and progress must be submitted weekly to validate said guarantee. If
animal proves insufficient as evaluated by at least two accredited trainers,
breeder will either refund purchase price or replace the animal when the
original animal is returned to us. All Shipping, travel and evaluation expenses
are the responsibility of the buyer.
This certificate is only
valid for said animal to original buyer. Guarantee requires presenting
certificate to breeder
Puppy Health Caution
I am writing this message with a heavy heart, and wishing things went well
always. We have traditionally administered the first puppy shot before the puppy
leaves our care using the solojec 7 way vaccine. Some people are anti
vaccination, and I can understand their concern, they need to get with me ahead
of time to plan the health care for the puppy. As tragic as the pet food recall
was for many people (not our family dobes extended family as we all feed Royal
Canin right?) imagine this pain. As with the pet food recall, those people who
lost their pets were doing what they thought was good and right, they wanted to
care for them. All the while they were feeding them poison that killed them. I
had a puppy that we placed at Christmas time just pass away and naturally the
family was very upset as I can imagine. Turns out after all the tissue cultures
were completed at Cornell, it was determined that the cause of Death was
distemper. Now I had vaccinated the puppy when it left, and the owners had given
the boosters twice as they should. Next they gave another booster at the Vet
office, and one week later the puppy died of the very disease it had been
vaccinated against. This is called vaccine break. Again you are doing what you
believe is best for the pet, and it causes a tragedy. Our hearts and prayers go
out to this family and we are trying to help them get another pup to help them
grieve and move on. One thing I have learned studying this case and consulting
with several vets is that Pfizer and Interjec guarantee their vaccinations to be
effective. If the dog contracts the disease while under their approved
vaccination schedules, they will cover all the costs of care! We are switching
to Pfizer for this reason. A second problem is fresh in my mind and has me very
upset. I placed a pup from my last litter that left here with a vaccination, and
today is in the clinic suffering from Parvo. I do not know if the booster had
been given, but there are some important things to understand. If you vaccinate,
primary immunity is not usually obtained until the third shot, and it still
needs a booster as the puppy grows. As you start caring for your new puppy, it
really is best not to take them anywhere other dogs could have been. Parvo can
lay dormant for up to seven years. that means if a Parvo dog eliminates on your
lawn, six or seven years later your dog could come down with Parvo. It is tragic
and hard, and has a high mortality rate. The best strategy, is to vaccinate
effectively for Parvo, and keep the dog secluded until immunity is reached. A
titer test is the best way to determine this. Remember even going to the Vet is
a risk, but one we have to take, where does someone with a parvo dog go? To the
Vet naturally. Although they do their best to keep things sterile, parking lots
etc can be very contaminated. Crates are best for puppy visits to the Vet. Keep
them in it and be wary about who you let poke fingers etc in.
Health Testing
You will notice in all my ramblings that I don't put
all my stock in health
testing, especially for things like Thyroid. All it tells you is the condition
of the animal the day they are evaluated. We don't yet understand genetics
completely enough to take any strand of DNA, map it and all it's combinations
out and identify all future problems. There are many things that are strongly
influenced by genetics, but they all have counterparts that go into the equation
as well. Mainly those are exercise and nutrition. Just the same as it is with
us. I don't purchase my breeding stock based on "tests" though they do have some
importance in my mind, evaluate the animal you are buying, and after that, it's
ancestors. Don't get too much peace of mind from a single test, do your own
testing and prevent problems first. If one comes up then correct it. I just want
to be honest with my buyers. The tests give buyers and artificial sense of
security. However... A breeder who does health testing, and gathers all the
information they can to make their decisions has shown that they are more
responsible and educated and that has a lot of value to me even if the test
results don't. Let that be a guide for you as well is my recommendation.
Vaccination
I have always told folks, to wait until the pup is seven weeks old to receive
it's first vaccination. SoloJec 7 is now approved for use on puppies 6 weeks
old. The best schedule is to give first shot at 6 weeks, then every 2-4 week
intervals thereafter until 18 weeks of age for a total of up to 7 shots.
Interval should be determined by you and your vet based on exposure risk etc. I
prefer two week intervals. After that you will give them an annual shot. I try
to accompany it with their Rabies Vaccination so it is easy to remember when
they come due. Our pups receive their first shot at 6 weeks, but primary
immunity is not acquired until they receive at least two doses .
Update:
I have to tell you the
“new” thing is to avoid vaccines altogether, but I don’t agree with that. I am
too concerned about Parvo and Distemper. I did have one of my clients lose a pup
to Distemper just last month, and it was one week after it got it’s last shot,
so I have really been studying vaccines. Here is what I found, stick with Pfizer
vaccines or interject, but Pfizer is still preferred. They not only guarantee
the vaccine to be effective, (in adults up to 3 years sometimes) and they will
pay vet expenses if the animal contracts the disease. I guess I am done with
soloject vaccines. My Vet recommends (and I do agree) First shot at 6 weeks,
then every three weeks after that until 16 weeks to guard against Parvo in high
risk dogs (dogs that go where other dogs have been). If the dog doesn’t go out
in public (right like that will happen) then every four weeks is fine. It is a
delicate line to balance between enough protection, while keeping risk minimal.
I hope this helps. The other thing is to be careful of deworming too much as it
has been linked to blindness and hearing loss. Pumpkin seed and Tobacco are
natural de-wormers for the holistic approach, I prefer Ivermectin still just
used with care and prudence.
Ear Cropping
It is getting harder to find vets that are qualified and willing to do ear
cropping as many of you have already found. It is no longer taught in Vet school
and can only be learned by assisting a vet who already has the art. Most vets
still tape ears around “posts” which range from popsicle sticks wound with gauze
and tape, to tampons to plastic formed posts. After the ears are cut, they are
sutured or glued at the edges and taped or otherwise braced in the upright
position. There are many different lengths and styles to choose from, most
likely your vet will recommend the one they are most comfortable with. Depending
on the length and shape of the crop they may be in tape from 2 weeks to 1 year.
Show crops are the hardest to get standing, but look amazing when they do.
Medium is what I recommend for most pet dogs, they stand easily and take the
least amount of time. I do not recommend military or guard dog crops for anyone,
I find them ugly. Look at lot’s of pictures to decide what it is that you like
the best, and discuss it with your vet. Then after surgery they will need taped
and re-taped often while they heal. After a few times you get the hang of it and
can re-tape on your own, though most vets will include several re-tapes with the
surgery. The most important thing is to keep them clean and dry or they can get
severe infections. This means no baths, no rain or snow storms. Second is trying
to keep the dog from damaging their own ears, next keeping other dogs from
damaging their ears. Dogs love to chew on each others ears and it seems they
enjoy it even more if you have spent a lot of money on them and taped them
nicely in the erect position! It is the hardest thing to go through when the pup
s at the age they are just a ball of energy and you have to keep them quiet and
interested in other things. Some get to wear lampshade collars to keep them from
bothering their ears, and that is an experience in itself! But most of you will
decide to crop, and will be happy that you did. Floppy ear Dobes are cute as
well, and much less work and money, but don’t have the same look about them.
Here is a list we are compiling of Vets that do ear cropping, if you have had
a good or bad experience, send in that Vet's info with pictures and your Story:
My favorite Vet and some pictures of pups he has done:
Pew, Carl L DVM (801) 225-5395 525 S State St Orem, UT 84058-6303
Dr Pew is the best there is period, He is an AKC Judge for the
Doberman and Showed and bred dobes for many years with his perfected crop. If
you are within travel distance, see Dr. Pew!
Good California Vet: Dr. LaBounty in Studio City, CA (just North of LA) (818)
762-1491
Dr. Weaver at Squaw Peak Animal
Hospital. His number is 602-553-8855 Phoenix Az
Rob Graham, CVT
Practice Manager
Animal Health
Services of Cave Creek
37555 N Cave Creek Rd
Cave Creek, AZ 85331
(480) 488-6181
Pender Veterinary Center
4001 Lagato Rd
Fairfax, VA. 22033
703-591-3304
Dr. Johnson does the ears and his extension is #109.
Dr Holt is not
only a very concerned and good vet, but seems to be rather good at this. Cooper
came home with very clear instructions on care and also 2 weeks of antibiotics
and pain meds for the 1st few days.
Dr Holt runs
Jenison Animal Hospital at 648 Chicago Dr. Jenison, MI 49428 616-457-9200.
The ear crop was $218.00. Microchip was $35.00. Not a bad price.
Dr Truesdale at 455 Central Ave Seekonk MA 508-761-8525
Click here: Jenison Animal Hospital PC - Jenison, MI 49428 - Reviews: Animal
Hospitals, Veterinarians, Kennels & Pet Boarding

Animal Care Center
Dr. Tim O'Rourke
1005 E. College Way
Mt. Vernon, WA 98273
(360) 848-0180
VON WILLEBRAND DISEASE
Did you know it affects humans as
well as dogs? No it is not contagious, it is genetic. It is believed to affect
2.6 million people in the US!
vWd is the common abbreviation, it is a disorder that can be quite common in
Dobermans depending on the lines they are bred from. What is it exactly? It is a
genetic defect that causes abnormal blood clotting. dogs can fall in one of
three categories, affected, carriers or clear. Affected dogs may have a hard
time recovering from surgery, injury or even normal biology such as
menstruation. This is not the only bleeding disease affecting dobes. Vetgen has
a test for vWd and it can tell you what precautions to take in your breeding
program, and how to prepare for the future. Not all dogs with vWd will die from
it, but some die either directly from it or as a result of it complicating other
problems. Here is one of my favorite articles:
FAQ's about vWD in Doberman Pinschers
Email correspondence between Dr. Patrick Venta and James
Anable Jr.
Posted on [DOBERWORLD-L] listserv
Date: Tue, 19 Nov 1996 12:17:14 -0800
From: "James W. Anable, Jr."
Subject: READ THIS--Dr. Venta's response to vWD questions List
members,
Hi Jim,
My colleagues finally had a chance to comment and make changes to this
letter to you, and so it is now a joint effort. So here it is.
As you know, VetGen is now offering DNA tests for von Willebrand's
disease (vWD) in Scotties, Shelties, and Dobes, and Kristi, of VetGen,
is beginning to post information about these tests. The responses
indicate some confusion, particularly about the Doberman. You have
asked me, as one of the investigators who discovered the mutation, to
clarify the genetics and usefulness of the new DNA tests. This is a
fairly long letter, and I will apologize for its length now, but I
felt that much of what is presented is information that you and other
interested parties will want. I have not followed the posts for the
lists, so I hope that you will forgive me if I might repeat something
that has already been said a million times.
A key part of this message that you must understand is that we now
know the precise DNA mutations and why and how they cause vWD in these
three breeds. So all past hypotheses and speculations in the Merck Vet
Manual and elsewhere, which were based upon the old protein-based
factor assay, are out the window. Ignore them--they are past history.
Now that we have the mutations in Scotties, Shelties, and Dobes, we
can speak from fact not speculation regarding these three breeds. We
are working on other breeds as well, but we cannot promise the date at
which we will find any of the other mutations (although, of course, we
hope it will be sooner rather than later).
The bottom line of what is given below is as follows: (1) vWD in
Doberman pinschers is a true clinical disease in which affected
animals are predisposed to have abnormally (and sometimes fatally)
prolonged bleeding times. (2) The Dobe disease is recessively
inherited, contrary to what some previous research had suggested in
the past. (3) Carriers are unlikely to have bleeding problems but
affected (that is, homozygous mutant) animals are at a significant
risk of serious bleeding problems, if they undergo surgery or sustain
moderate trauma. Penetrance is *far* less important than was inferred
from the dominant, incompletely penetrant model. (4) If this one
mutant gene was eliminated from the breed, vWD would become a very
rare disease, indeed, in Dobes.
I will begin by describing the disease in two other breeds, because I
believe that this will lead into the Dobe situation very well. Both
the Scottie and Sheltie have the severe Type 3 form of the disease.
The Sheltie may be a rare exception to the rule, that better than 99%
of any simply inherited disease in a breed is caused by one mutation.
In other words, while the major and most severe form of vWD in
Shelties is Type 3, there is a possibility that a minor portion of the
vWD problem is due to Type 1 vWD. This is according to data developed
by Dr. Jean Dodds and her colleagues (Brooks et al., 1992--see below
for complete references). We are working to see if this is true (it
seems likely). Type 2 vWD, by the way, has only been seen in only two
breeds of dogs, German shorthaired pointers and German wirehair
pointers, so we will ignore it, in this letter. Both the Scottie and
Sheltie Type 3 vWDs are caused by mutations that prevent *any* von
Willebrand factor (vWF) from being produced. The technical term for
these mutations are "single base deletions." These diseases are
recessive, so that both copies of the gene that a dog possesses must
be mutant before the animal has a bleeding problem. Carriers almost
never have bleeding problems (Johnson et al., 1988).
The Doberman pinscher mutation, on the other hand, is Type 1 but it is
*recessively* inherited! Most human Type 1 vWD is inherited in a
dominant, incompletely penetrant mode. There are two things that made
the Dobe vWD appear to be inherited in a fashion like the human
disease. (1) The Dobe mutation is what geneticists refer to as
"leaky." That is, the mutant gene makes a small amount of normal vWF
protein. The amount made by each mutant gene is about 5% of the total
normal amount. A normal gene would make 50% (so that two genes produce
100%). (2) The frequency of the mutant gene in the Doberman pinscher
breed is greater than 60%! The parent of an affected animal can be
also be affected, due to the high gene frequency (thus, the apparent
dominant inheritance), but this is not always the case (thus, the
apparent incomplete penetrance). This result was easily (and
understandably) misinterpreted as the dominant, incompletely penetrant
mode of inheritance as seen in humans. In human genetics, it is
assumed that each genetic disease is rare, and one would not expect
the parents of "affecteds" to also be affected if the disease was
recessive. With animals, rarity of a disease gene cannot always be
assumed, as illustrated by Dobe vWD. Other researchers have also
presented data and arguments that Dobe vWD is actually a recessive
disease (Moser et al., 1996; Johnson et al., 1988). The identification
of the mutation fully explains it. Homozygotes for the disease in
Dobermans do *not* die in utero. The mode of inheritance with other
breeds, such as the German shepherd dog, could still be dominant,
incompletely penetrant. We simply are not certain of the inheritiance
pattern for other breeds at this time.
Dobe carriers should produce 55% of normal vWF, on average (5% from
the mutant gene and 50% from the normal gene). However, other
biological variables can affect the amount of factor found in the
blood. These variables include thyroid hormone level, estrous, liver
status (diseased or not), etc. Variation can also be produced by
inappropriate handling of the blood sample or some variability in the
protein-based tests themselves. These variations for concentration of
the protein in the blood can make an animal appear to be a carrier on
one day and homozygous normal (clear) on the next (which value does a
breeder believe?). This is why the protein-based tests are not as
useful as they might otherwise be. The DNA-based tests are completely
different, because they detect the genetic change at the gene level,
which does not vary. There are only three possible results from the
DNA-based test. An animal is either clear, a carrier, or affected.
Re-testing is pointless, because the result will always be the same
for a given animal. So one test is good for the life of the animal.
Incidentally, we have also set up the test so that it is noninvasive
(you swab the inside of the dog's mouth with a small, soft brush),
convenient (you can send the brush by regular mail--no need to
refrigerate), and you can test at any age, even young puppies.
Dobe *carriers* with abnormally long bleeding times are not common.
Dodds, Johnson and Stokol et al. have all reported that animals do not
usually bleed excessively when they have factor levels greater than
36% of normal (Dodds, 1982; Johnson et al., 1988; Stokol et al.,
1995). Carriers will occasionally go below this level, but usually not
by very much. Surveys of fairly large numbers of animals have been
conducted, and the data appear to show the expected trimodel
distributions for number of animals vs. factor concentrations (Dodds
and Covey, 1981; Moser et al., 1996; Johnson et al., 1988; Stokol et
al., 1995). By extrapolating the overlapping curves it can be seen
that carriers do not dip into the danger range more than occasionally.
Therefore, the fear that an animal who tests as a carrier might
someday suddenly become a severe bleeder because of the dominant,
incompletely penetrant scenario is completely negated. Occasional
carriers might have bleeding times that are prolonged, but these are
the exceptions. Clear animals will never bleed abnormally, due to
hereditary vWD (the removal of the disease gene should be, after all,
the eventual goal).
Fortunately, even affected Dobes usually do not bleed spontaneously
(unlike the case for Scotties, and perhaps Shelties). If they did,
there probably would have been a stronger natural selective pressure
to remove the disease gene. However, with surgery or moderate trauma,
these dogs are at risk for serious bleeding problems (there are
numerous reports in the scientific literature addressing this fact,
and I am sure that there have been numerous anecdotal reports in this
forum as well). So the disease and its causative gene are something
that breeders should most certainly want to remove from their breeding
programs. This will have to be done with care, however, because we do
not believe that it is in the best interest of the breed to limit the
gene pool by breeding only clear to clear. By following the guidelines
that Kristi at VetGen posted previously (also available at http://www.vetgen.com/),
it should be possible to allow the desirable genes to separate from
the disease gene over a few generations, while at the same time
preventing the occurrence of affected animals.
The mutation that we have found accounts for essentially all of the
vWD seen in Dobermans. It is always possible that a rare mutation in
combination with the common mutation would cause a bleeder. However,
this should be very rare, because the rate of occurrence of *new*
mutations for most genes is between one in one hundred thousand to one
in a million per generation (Crow, 1993 and references contained
therein). If the mutation we have found is eliminated from the breed,
von Willebrand's disease will also be eliminated from the breed
(ignoring those one in a million new mutations that can never be
prevented). The same is true for specific lines, as well. Breed out
the disease gene (which can now be detected) and the disease will be
gone from the line.
If some portion of this letter needs clarification, please let me know
and I will do my best to do so. The other primary investigators for
this research are Vilma Yuzbasiyan-Gurkan, Ph.D. and William Schall,
DVM at Michigan State University, and George Brewer, MD and Jianping
Li in the Department of Human Genetics at the University of Michigan.
I hope that you find this letter useful and, once again, Jim, I
apologize for its length.
Sincerely,
Pat
Patrick Venta, Ph.D.
College of Veterinary Medicine
Michigan State University
Hips and Joints
All large breed dogs are concerned with hip and joint health. There is
nothing more difficult than helping your companion get up just to go out to the
bathroom, so they don't go where they lie. Gretta my first Dobe, got to the
point she couldn't move to take care of herself. Her kidneys were not doing well
anymore, and I had to make the hardest choice I had made up to that point in my
life. She was suffering deeply, she didn't enjoy her life or time with me. Like
me she wished we were hiking in the mountains or playing fetch, even just going
for a car ride. Is good joint health important to me? You be it is, I lost a
dear friend much too soon because of it. There are a lot of breeders out there
who try to build buyer confidence with OFA certifications etc. Yes Hip and bone
problems are genetic, yes OFA is important and should be done as soon as the
animal is two. Other things to remember are injury, and excessive use at a young
age also cause later problems. One of the lesser known problems is Nutrition. It
was once thought that we should slow the growth of large breed dogs to curb
future problems. They believe that this gives the bones and joints time to
develop sufficiently to support the weight of the large animal. Many Large breed
formulas such as Science Diet and Iams still hold this philosophy, which is why
I no longer feed them. you can see this isn't what nature had in mind, and in
nature, animals make it to maturity healthy and strong. This is why I feed Royal
Canine Maxi Puppy. They really should sponsor me somehow for as much as I
recommend them to all our new homes and everyone I meet. I don't get anything
from them though, and that adds credibility to my recommendation. You see in
nature, Large animals such as Timber wolves eat a diet very high in protein,
(read the labels of whatever feed you choose to begin to understand) and fat.
They get grains, greens etc as a byproduct, not directly. Wolves don't run into
a corn field and eat the corn, they run in and eat the pheasant. I once believed
Dogs to be strict carnivores for this reason. finally one study helped sway my
opinion a little. Strict Carnivores, only masticate (chew) vertically (up and
down), with sharp pointed dentition. Strict Herbivores have different dentition
(teeth) to grind and their jaws move in a side to side type of movement. A true
Omnivore then must be able to bite and tear with sharp front teeth (like we
have) and chew both vertically and horizontally with some kind of a rear
grinding surface (like people). This study showed that although dogs don't have
a flat Molar in their mouths for grinding, they do chew both directions. So then
I started to think they are omnivores by accident. When they eat the pheasant,
or other critters, they are eating the whole animal including it's stomach etc.
and all it contains. This is how they do get some grain and roughage in their
diet. The diet then is very high in protein and fat. When the mother of wild
dogs brings them food to eat, she brings a whole rabbit, she doesn't ration it
out on a limited protein and fat system to slow down their growth. So how does
nature allow for good skeletal development? They ea the whole rabbit, bones and
all. They get tendons, joints and all important parts. What do joints contain in
healthy animals? Glucosamine and
Chondroitin Sulfate. People have just now clued in to what nature provided all
along. By supplementing the "joint fluid" in their diets, they can develop at a
normal pace and still be healthy. They can run and play, but don't work on high
jumping type exercises until they are fully developed. If you get them the
proper nutrients, their bodies will do wonders, and they will have good joint
health. In addition, verify that the lines your new pup comes from are
genetically prone to good hips and joints. Interested in stem cell research?
Consider that carnivores consume a large amount of living bone marrow in the
wild with every meal, from many species. Makes you wonder huh?
Cardio
just as in people, if you come from a family full of heart problems, you are
likely to have heart problems as well, it is the same for your dogs. There are
many types of heart problems in dogs, and generally the words get very long and
hard to understand. What you need to know, is things that deviate from normal
are not good. Hearts that are too big, too small, or have irregular beats or
valve problems are not good. Only a Vet who specializes in cardiology can help
you know and understand all of this. There are many tests and opinions out there
on cardio health. My opinion is an ultrasound to determine structure, size etc
is important as well as an EKG to determine rhythm etc. A Holter Monitor test
may be the single most important test as it shows things otherwise unseen. I also believe in
researching pedigrees to identify health risks. Again, bad hearts are
genetically influenced but can come from poor diet and exercise just as happens
in people. A well fed active dog can live a very long happy life even if he was
predisposed to poor cardiac health, just as it is with us. Feed them right, and
exercise them, select them from the best lines possible, and you and your
companion will make far more happy memories.
Eye health
There are as many eye problems as there are cardiac problems in dogs. Again
the names get very confusing and people are just now trying to understand it all
just as with people. Certain kinds of blindness or vision problems can be
influenced genetically, as well as nutritionally or due to injury. Very few vets
specialize in ophthalmology, and very few people enlist their help and opinions.
Again many breeders try to build buyer confidence with evaluations and tests,
that I believe have some value, but don't just assume that because a dog has had
it's health tests performed that it will produce perfect puppies. Some things
are genetically influenced, but we don't have a genetic "test" for eye trouble,
and if we did you should test the puppy not the parent. What the "tests" consist
of are evaluations of the eye structure, at the time the dog is examined. This
is good information, but does not guarantee the offspring will never have eye
trouble. Again, feed well, exercise the eyes while they develop by walking in
all kinds of lighting conditions including nighttime, and have the dog evaluated
if you notice problems.
First Aid
First Aid is exactly that, the first thing you do until you can get help or
get to a Vet. Many vets will teach a basic first aid class to your training
clubs or groups if you just ask them, they are pretty good about that. There are
also a lot of great books and articles to read, and you could even volunteer at
your local vet. Everyone will need a basic kit, and there are many out there to
choose from. Most important is that you know how to use what you have. All the
fancy kits in the world won't help at all if you don't know how to use them.
Spend some time learning the important points that you are qualified to take
care of. You will need to know how to stop bleeding in different areas, how to
immobilize broken bones, treat for shock, dehydration, blood loss, insect,
animal and reptile bites. Learn about allergic reactions etc. I could type all
night on what to do, but it is best to attend a class put on by your vet so you
can do what it is they want you to do on the way. Here is a link to some of the
better kits I have found. I like the pro kit, but don't bother getting it unless
you really know how to use all of that stuff. If you can't see yourself using
sutures or staplers on open wounds, why have them? Unless you are going to be
around others that do know how to use them. The other thing is, don't be afraid
to use the stuff in your kit, it can always be replaced and replenished, always
have extra gauze, tape, and vet wrap around, you will use a lot of it! http://www.outdoorsafety.net/sportingdogkits.htm
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