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A word about Value

It is my opinion that you really do get what you pay for in a dog. When you purchase a car, they are priced (through honest people anyway) according to their overall mechanical and cosmetic condition, how they have been cared for, what features they have etc. Thankfully when buying cars there are buying guides to help determine the worth. In Dogs there is no guide to go by. Often I am asked why there is such a difference in the value of my pups, and not only my pups, but between my pups and someone else's. It really comes down to value, what are you getting for your dollar, and naturally the environmental factors such as supply and demand influence it as well. I have seen Dobes for sale in today's market for as low as $300. I have seen them as high as $75,000. I have also seen people turn down $300,000 or more on really outstanding dogs. The differences break down roughly like this. Most important is the one thing most first time buyers overlook, that is the "quality" of the breeder. Do they have an understanding of the breed, genetics, and health? Do they have clear breeding goals that they are trying to achieve? Do they have experience? Was this a planned breeding with a goal to get closer to their model of perfection? Most importantly, are they going to be there for you after the purchase? It is my opinion that $300 pups come from accidental breeding or deliberate breeding between two dogs that happen to be Dobermans. Usually the breeding goal is cash. Generally it will be a first time breeder with little or no experience or education. Again this is just my opinion. Generally you will find that the pups will be worth what their parents were worth. It is very rare to find a a world champion quality pup from two $300 dogs. This type of breeder generally has not had any health testing, and likely doesn't have a good vet for regular check-ups and help along the way. This kind of care is very expensive, and the cost must be recouped somewhere. I admit 15 years ago, I raised $300 pups. I learned a lot over the years and developed my program and my education. I have learned that I would lose a great deal of money if I were to breed great quality dogs, from outstanding parents, care for them right and place them in their new homes for $300. It can't be done. Most importantly, I have learned if you have a problem with your $300 dog a year later, the breeder can not be contacted, cannot remedy the problem, and won't answer your calls about health and training issues. They only answer calls asking about their puppies for sale. Breeder support is more important in many cases than the pup you choose. They have been through it all, they can answer most of your questions, and if you stump them, they know where to go to get the answers. More importantly, they are willing to do all of that. Naturally that time and dedication has value, and has real costs associated with it. Start there first when determining value, then consider the face value of pup. My pups are available at a dollar amount according to what I think their potential is. Some dogs will be better athletes than others. Generally those traits are highly heritable, meaning if mom and dad are great athletes their offspring should be as well. Some dogs have better conformation than others making them ideal for show. those traits likewise are highly heritable. Some dogs are lucky enough to have both great conformation and athletic ability. Also important is their genetic potential which becomes a deeper genetic study that I can explain if you want to understand more. Pedigrees are important to some people and that to can influence price. Based on which female produced the pups, we know what to expect from those litters, and that is how we price our pups. What will the demand be for this bloodline, this conformation type, their temperament, the accomplishments of their ancestors as well as their own etc. We only produce pups that will meet our program goals, if they don't we don't continue breeding those females. We have given up many wonderful dogs that did produce great pups this last year because we can only feed so many, and the current girls are that much better. Determine what is important to you with your dog, what you want to accomplish, and then see if that type of dog will fit your budget. If you want to win an international championship, expect to pay more for your pup. If all you want is a great pet, pick one from a breeder with great support, and great health programs and a replacement policy. We want you to get the dog that best meets your needs, and we want you to know you got your money's worth.

    Deposits: A Deposit holds your place in line for a particular litter. And is gender specific, sometimes color specific. It is also 100% transferable to another litter. In the event you opt not to take the pup you had reserved, and we were able to provide that pup, the deposit is 75% refundable. In the event we are not able to provide you with the pup you reserved, and you opt not to take a replacement the deposit is 100% refundable.

A word about Age

An adult dog can shortcut many problems and steps in dog ownership, but can come with it's pitfalls as well. Young adults and older pups can also be great choices for some situations. Talk to us about your situation and expectations so we can make sound recommendations. Most all books will say it is irresponsible to let pups go before 8 weeks of age. In fact the book I send you says that as well. But when you read training books from top trainers, and animal behaviorists, you will find a different story. Dogs learn many things from the mother and the littermates, some of them vital to survival, others interfere with further training. Dog on dog aggression for example is learned by roughhousing with litter mates too rough too long. At the same time, it builds confidence and teaches them what is acceptable interaction. Here are some excerpt from some of my favorite books.

        The first 16 weeks of a dog's life are a period of tremendous development. For the first 21 days the mental capacity of a puppy is zero. During the 21st through 28th day, the senses (seeing, hearing, smelling, and first emotional and social stress within the litter) begin to develop. At this time, the puppy first starts to learn and should be introduced to gentle socialization. On approximately the 28th day of life, the puppy's brain "turns on." From the 28th to 49th day, his nervous system and brain develop to adult form. The seventh week of life is most critical. This is the best time to wean a puppy from the litter so that he develops an attachment to his new owner. The seventh to twelfth week should introduce gentle and playful early obedience (such as kindergarten puppy training). A dogs character is set by what he learned up through the 16th week of life.

            -Search and rescue dogs training the K9 hero second edition

"...So what is the ideal time for your puppy to make the transition to it's new home? All the behavioral studies that have been done recommend the 49th day give or take a day or two. These studies have also shown that dogs begin to learn at 3 weeks of age. At 7 weeks old their brains are neurologically complete, and all the circuits are wired. Their mind is a blank page, and all you have to do is fill it with the right information. They won't forget what they learn in the next few weeks. If you wait until your dog is older, he'll probably have picked up several bad habits, which means you have to erase the page and start all over, a much more tedious job than starting when he is a puppy.

            -dog training for Dummies 2nd edition *This book despite the title is my favorite book

You can see why it is important to place the dog on time, and if that is not possible or wanted, the puppy must be raised "under foot" at that point to ensure proper development. Whether you get one of our dogs or someone else's, make sure you get the pup at the proper age, or from someone who will bring the pup up properly so it will reach it's full potential.

A word about Gender

Nearly half of our clients ask us "Which is better a male or a female?" That is a loaded question if I have ever heard one! I follow it up with questions about what it is you want your dog to become, what do you expect it to do, what do you expect to do with it. Males and females are different but not better or worse. Just like people in some ways. Women typically care more about relationships, family, etc whereas Men want to talk about jobs, hobbies, accomplishments etc. I will speak about some generalizations because generally they are true, however there are many exceptions. Male dogs tend to be more independent, more concerned about hierarchy, more territorial such as they want to protect "their" property. In case you didn't already know, we live in their homes, they allow us to sit on their stuff etc. Females tend to be more people oriented, less interested in hierarchy, and possessive of their people, not their property. They own us we don't own them in their minds. A male dog wants to keep strangers out of the yard, females want to keep strangers away from their people. Now when you spay and neuter it changes everything because behavior and temperament are driven by hormones. A neutered male is the calmest most easy going dog, followed by spayed females, then intact females, then intact males. So ask yourself how you want the dog to behave, what you want it to do, and then ask me my opinion. We want to help you get the right dog for your needs. The right dog is never the wrong color or gender.

A word about registration

All Family Dobes are placed with limited AKC registration, and sometimes that may take some time due to the foreign transfers etc, but papers are guaranteed. Full registration is only available on performance or co-ownership contracts just to make sure you have good mentors along the way to help you make good decisions and get your health testing done. All dogs will still be eligible to compete or anything else, you just won't own the full breeding rights right away. This really is a safeguard to help you not make some of the mistakes I made along the way because no one would mentor me. I say often education and information are free, but sometimes they can't come all at once. I can't make anyone a responsible breeder overnight, but given some time and help and encouragement, the breed can really benefit. Many people ask what is the difference? Registration terminology: The AKC has several types of registration we will only discuss the most important two. If your dog or the one you are looking at does not fall into these two categories, don't by them. Other registers are also no good if they are not recognized by the AKC. For example our dogs we bring in from Europe can be registered with the AKC, and we do that. Dogs with UKC/ACA,CKC etc may or may not be able to get papers with the AKC. In America as much as the AKC frustrates me, and they do have their weaknesses, they are still the American standard. You can likewise enroll your dogs with the United Doberman Club if you are interested in the Schutzhund sport or foreign dogs. AKC offers full registration which means the dog is eligible for all AKC sponsored events and programs such as the "Canine Good Citizen" Which I encourage all of you to get. It is easy enough anyone can get it if they set a goal and pursue it. It also exposes you to the world of competition which you may decide you like or not. Full registration most importantly gives you the right to breed the dog and register their offspring with the AKC. Limited papers mean you can still compete/show and everything else you just can not register the offspring if you bred them. The only event they can not compete in is conformation as it is reserved for breeding animals. For that reason, limited dogs are usually spayed and neutered. It is also possible to change limited papers to full, so some people do not "fix" their dogs right away.

A word about Spaying or Neutering

We recommend not "fixing the dog" until 18 months of age anyway because of health issues such as bladder control. Females that are altered before 18 months old generally have trouble with bladder control later on. Your vet will tell you to spay early to prevent things like ovarian or testicular cancer, that will work, but removing the ovaries or testicles at 4 years old will prevent it as well, they are gone! At any rate have a good working relationship with your vet, and make a decision together that you feel comfortable with when it comes to altering your dog.

Guarantee

At Family Dobes we have often said we have a health and temperament guarantee. What we really have is a refund or replacement policy based on certain conditions. I can guarantee parentage, and the condition the pup leaves my care, but I can not guarantee how it will turn out in the future; health or otherwise. We say Guarantee to re-assure the buyer, and add credibility. You will receive a copy of our refund/replacement policy upon purchase which basically lines out that we will refund or replace the puppy if it is affected by certain genetic disorders, or does not work for it's intended purpose.    

Health Policy as follows: Family Dobes guarantees the pup to be free of Hip Dysplasia (when raised on approved feed requires receipts for verification), hypothyroidism, von Willebrands disease (must be verified with Vetgen DNA test, and be “affected” and have active bleeding issues), wobblers syndrome, and progressive retinal atrophy or other genetically inherited problems that will cause early death to the age of  24 months. Other diseases not genetically inherited and will not be covered. We recommend having a very good relationship with your veterinarian and following appropriate wellness and vaccination schedules. Any health claims must be accompanied by certification of abnormality from two accredited veterinarians. Breeder may refund purchase price or replace with similar animal at the breeders discretion when the original animal is returned to us. All shipping, travel and vet expenses are the responsibility of the buyer.

Temperament Policy as follows: Family Dobes will Guarantee said animal to have sufficient temperament to be a working family companion when approved training schedule and program are followed and documented. Documentation of schedule, activities and progress must be submitted weekly to validate said guarantee. If animal proves insufficient as evaluated by at least two accredited trainers, breeder will either refund purchase price or replace the animal when the original animal is returned to us. All Shipping, travel and evaluation expenses are the responsibility of the buyer.

This certificate is only valid for said animal to original buyer. Guarantee requires presenting certificate to breeder

 Puppy Health Caution

I am writing this message with a heavy heart, and wishing things went well always. We have traditionally administered the first puppy shot before the puppy leaves our care using the solojec 7 way vaccine. Some people are anti vaccination, and I can understand their concern, they need to get with me ahead of time to plan the health care for the puppy. As tragic as the pet food recall was for many people imagine this pain. As with the pet food recall, those people who lost their pets were doing what they thought was good and right, they wanted to care for them. All the while they were feeding them poison that killed them. I had a puppy that we placed at Christmas time just pass away and naturally the family was very upset as I can imagine. Turns out after all the tissue cultures were completed at Cornell, it was determined that the cause of Death was distemper. Now I had vaccinated the puppy when it left, and the owners had given the boosters twice as they should. Next they gave another booster at the Vet office, and one week later the puppy died of the very disease it had been vaccinated against. This is called vaccine break. Again you are doing what you believe is best for the pet, and it causes a tragedy. Our hearts and prayers go out to this family and we are trying to help them get another pup to help them grieve and move on. One thing I have learned studying this case and consulting with several vets is that Pfizer and Interjec guarantee their vaccinations to be effective. If the dog contracts the disease while under their approved vaccination schedules, they will cover all the costs of care! We are switching to Pfizer for this reason. A second problem is fresh in my mind and has me very upset. I placed a pup from my last litter that left here with a vaccination, and today is in the clinic suffering from Parvo. I do not know if the booster had been given, but there are some important things to understand. If you vaccinate, primary immunity is not usually obtained until the third shot, and it still needs a booster as the puppy grows. As you start caring for your new puppy, it really is best not to take them anywhere other dogs could have been. Parvo can lay dormant for up to seven years. that means if a Parvo dog eliminates on your lawn, six or seven years later your dog could come down with Parvo. It is tragic and hard, and has a high mortality rate. The best strategy, is to vaccinate effectively for Parvo, and keep the dog secluded until immunity is reached. A titer test is the best way to determine this. Remember even going to the Vet is a risk, but one we have to take, where does someone with a parvo dog go? To the Vet naturally. Although they do their best to keep things sterile, parking lots etc can be very contaminated. Crates are best for puppy visits to the Vet. Keep them in it and be wary about who you let poke fingers etc in.

Health Testing

You will notice in all my ramblings that I don't put all my stock in health testing, especially for things like Thyroid. All it tells you is the condition of the animal the day they are evaluated. We don't yet understand genetics completely enough to take any strand of DNA, map it and all it's combinations out and identify all future problems. There are many things that are strongly influenced by genetics, but they all have counterparts that go into the equation as well. Mainly those are exercise and nutrition. Just the same as it is with us. I don't purchase my breeding stock based on "tests" though they do have some importance in my mind, evaluate the animal you are buying, and after that, it's ancestors. Don't get too much peace of mind from a single test, do your own testing and prevent problems first. If one comes up then correct it. I just want to be honest with my buyers. The tests give buyers and artificial sense of security. However... A breeder who does health testing, and gathers all the information they can to make their decisions has shown that they are more responsible and educated and that has a lot of value to me even if the test results don't. Let that be a guide for you as well is my recommendation.

Vaccination

I have always told folks, to wait until the pup is seven weeks old to receive it's first vaccination. SoloJec 7 is now approved for use on puppies 6 weeks old. The best schedule is to give first shot at 6 weeks, then every 2-4 week intervals thereafter until 18 weeks of age for a total of up to 7 shots. Interval should be determined by you and your vet based on exposure risk etc. I prefer two week intervals. After that you will give them an annual shot. I try to accompany it with their Rabies Vaccination so it is easy to remember when they come due. Our pups receive their first shot at 6 weeks, but primary immunity is not acquired until they receive at least two doses .

Update:

I have to tell you the “new” thing is to avoid vaccines altogether, but I don’t agree with that. I am too concerned about Parvo and Distemper. I did have one of my clients lose a pup to Distemper just last month, and it was one week after it got it’s last shot, so I have really been studying vaccines. Here is what I found, stick with Pfizer vaccines or interject, but Pfizer is still preferred. They not only guarantee the vaccine to be effective, (in adults up to 3 years sometimes) and they will pay vet expenses if the animal contracts the disease. I guess I am done with soloject vaccines. My Vet recommends (and I do agree) First shot at 6 weeks, then every three weeks after that until 16 weeks to guard against Parvo in high risk dogs (dogs that go where other dogs have been). If the dog doesn’t go out in public (right like that will happen) then every four weeks is fine. It is a delicate line to balance between enough protection, while keeping risk minimal. I hope this helps. The other thing is to be careful of deworming too much as it has been linked to blindness and hearing loss. Pumpkin seed and Tobacco are natural de-wormers for the holistic approach, I prefer Ivermectin still just used with care and prudence.

Ear Cropping

There are a lot of good reasons to crop ears, and a lot of good reasons for floppy ears, you need to decide what you think is best. Dobermans with floppy ears look less like Dobermans and therefore less intimidating. Dogs that will be used as therapy dogs or SAR dogs, generally are more accepted by people with floppy ears. Cropped ears have the Doberman deterrent look to them. I have some of each. Cropped ears need less cleaning, stay dryer and have fewer infections. Floppy ears are cheaper, and you don't have to worry that your investment will be lost if they fall. Whatever you decide, your puppy will come to you with natural ears. Many breeders have vets that will crop ears at 5 weeks old to help make the pups more marketable. At five weeks of age, the ears are not very bigl, and the head is about the size of an apple. It is very hard to do a good crop that way. At 12 weeks of age the ears and head are balanced in their growth and a very successful crop can be achieved by a good Vet. We recommend cropping at 10-12 weeks and since your pup will be placed with you before that, we can not have the ears done for you. In the past when we have violated this rule, we found the puppy didn't get proper follow-up care and ended up with cropped ears that flopped which is a heartbreak to think of what the pup had to go through only to have floppy ears in the end still. Ear cropping though is an art not a science, and you have to trust the artist to some extent. I always ask to see pictures of previous crops the vet has done. Any artist that is proud of their work will keep a scrapbook or have dogs available to be seen. If you like how they turned out, then trust the artist if they want to do the ears early.

Click Here for more cropping info

VON WILLEBRAND DISEASE

Did you know it affects humans as well as dogs? No it is not contagious, it is genetic. It is believed to affect 2.6 million people in the US!

vWd is the common abbreviation, it is a disorder that can be quite common in Dobermans depending on the lines they are bred from. What is it exactly? It is a genetic defect that causes abnormal blood clotting. dogs can fall in one of three categories, affected, carriers or clear. Affected dogs may have a hard time recovering from surgery, injury or even normal biology such as menstruation. This is not the only bleeding disease affecting dobes. Vetgen has a test for vWd and it can tell you what precautions to take in your breeding program, and how to prepare for the future. Not all dogs with vWd will die from it, but some die either directly from it or as a result of it complicating other problems. Here is one of my favorite articles:

FAQ's about vWD in Doberman Pinschers


Email correspondence between Dr. Patrick Venta and James Anable Jr.
Posted on [DOBERWORLD-L] listserv
Date: Tue, 19 Nov 1996 12:17:14 -0800
From: "James W. Anable, Jr."
Subject: READ THIS--Dr. Venta's response to vWD questions List members,

Hi Jim,

My colleagues finally had a chance to comment and make changes to this letter to you, and so it is now a joint effort. So here it is.

As you know, VetGen is now offering DNA tests for von Willebrand's disease (vWD) in Scotties, Shelties, and Dobes, and Kristi, of VetGen, is beginning to post information about these tests. The responses indicate some confusion, particularly about the Doberman. You have asked me, as one of the investigators who discovered the mutation, to clarify the genetics and usefulness of the new DNA tests. This is a fairly long letter, and I will apologize for its length now, but I felt that much of what is presented is information that you and other interested parties will want. I have not followed the posts for the lists, so I hope that you will forgive me if I might repeat something that has already been said a million times.

A key part of this message that you must understand is that we now know the precise DNA mutations and why and how they cause vWD in these three breeds. So all past hypotheses and speculations in the Merck Vet Manual and elsewhere, which were based upon the old protein-based factor assay, are out the window. Ignore them--they are past history. Now that we have the mutations in Scotties, Shelties, and Dobes, we can speak from fact not speculation regarding these three breeds. We are working on other breeds as well, but we cannot promise the date at which we will find any of the other mutations (although, of course, we hope it will be sooner rather than later).

The bottom line of what is given below is as follows: (1) vWD in Doberman pinschers is a true clinical disease in which affected animals are predisposed to have abnormally (and sometimes fatally) prolonged bleeding times. (2) The Dobe disease is recessively inherited, contrary to what some previous research had suggested in the past. (3) Carriers are unlikely to have bleeding problems but affected (that is, homozygous mutant) animals are at a significant risk of serious bleeding problems, if they undergo surgery or sustain moderate trauma. Penetrance is *far* less important than was inferred from the dominant, incompletely penetrant model. (4) If this one mutant gene was eliminated from the breed, vWD would become a very rare disease, indeed, in Dobes.

I will begin by describing the disease in two other breeds, because I believe that this will lead into the Dobe situation very well. Both the Scottie and Sheltie have the severe Type 3 form of the disease. The Sheltie may be a rare exception to the rule, that better than 99% of any simply inherited disease in a breed is caused by one mutation. In other words, while the major and most severe form of vWD in Shelties is Type 3, there is a possibility that a minor portion of the vWD problem is due to Type 1 vWD. This is according to data developed by Dr. Jean Dodds and her colleagues (Brooks et al., 1992--see below for complete references). We are working to see if this is true (it seems likely). Type 2 vWD, by the way, has only been seen in only two breeds of dogs, German shorthaired pointers and German wirehair pointers, so we will ignore it, in this letter. Both the Scottie and Sheltie Type 3 vWDs are caused by mutations that prevent *any* von Willebrand factor (vWF) from being produced. The technical term for these mutations are "single base deletions." These diseases are recessive, so that both copies of the gene that a dog possesses must be mutant before the animal has a bleeding problem. Carriers almost never have bleeding problems (Johnson et al., 1988).

The Doberman pinscher mutation, on the other hand, is Type 1 but it is *recessively* inherited! Most human Type 1 vWD is inherited in a dominant, incompletely penetrant mode. There are two things that made the Dobe vWD appear to be inherited in a fashion like the human disease. (1) The Dobe mutation is what geneticists refer to as "leaky." That is, the mutant gene makes a small amount of normal vWF protein. The amount made by each mutant gene is about 5% of the total normal amount. A normal gene would make 50% (so that two genes produce 100%). (2) The frequency of the mutant gene in the Doberman pinscher breed is greater than 60%! The parent of an affected animal can be also be affected, due to the high gene frequency (thus, the apparent dominant inheritance), but this is not always the case (thus, the apparent incomplete penetrance). This result was easily (and understandably) misinterpreted as the dominant, incompletely penetrant mode of inheritance as seen in humans. In human genetics, it is assumed that each genetic disease is rare, and one would not expect the parents of "affecteds" to also be affected if the disease was recessive. With animals, rarity of a disease gene cannot always be assumed, as illustrated by Dobe vWD. Other researchers have also presented data and arguments that Dobe vWD is actually a recessive disease (Moser et al., 1996; Johnson et al., 1988). The identification of the mutation fully explains it. Homozygotes for the disease in Dobermans do *not* die in utero. The mode of inheritance with other breeds, such as the German shepherd dog, could still be dominant, incompletely penetrant. We simply are not certain of the inheritiance pattern for other breeds at this time.

Dobe carriers should produce 55% of normal vWF, on average (5% from the mutant gene and 50% from the normal gene). However, other biological variables can affect the amount of factor found in the blood. These variables include thyroid hormone level, estrous, liver status (diseased or not), etc. Variation can also be produced by inappropriate handling of the blood sample or some variability in the protein-based tests themselves. These variations for concentration of the protein in the blood can make an animal appear to be a carrier on one day and homozygous normal (clear) on the next (which value does a breeder believe?). This is why the protein-based tests are not as useful as they might otherwise be. The DNA-based tests are completely different, because they detect the genetic change at the gene level, which does not vary. There are only three possible results from the DNA-based test. An animal is either clear, a carrier, or affected. Re-testing is pointless, because the result will always be the same for a given animal. So one test is good for the life of the animal. Incidentally, we have also set up the test so that it is noninvasive (you swab the inside of the dog's mouth with a small, soft brush), convenient (you can send the brush by regular mail--no need to refrigerate), and you can test at any age, even young puppies.

Dobe *carriers* with abnormally long bleeding times are not common. Dodds, Johnson and Stokol et al. have all reported that animals do not usually bleed excessively when they have factor levels greater than 36% of normal (Dodds, 1982; Johnson et al., 1988; Stokol et al., 1995). Carriers will occasionally go below this level, but usually not by very much. Surveys of fairly large numbers of animals have been conducted, and the data appear to show the expected trimodel distributions for number of animals vs. factor concentrations (Dodds and Covey, 1981; Moser et al., 1996; Johnson et al., 1988; Stokol et al., 1995). By extrapolating the overlapping curves it can be seen that carriers do not dip into the danger range more than occasionally. Therefore, the fear that an animal who tests as a carrier might someday suddenly become a severe bleeder because of the dominant, incompletely penetrant scenario is completely negated. Occasional carriers might have bleeding times that are prolonged, but these are the exceptions. Clear animals will never bleed abnormally, due to hereditary vWD (the removal of the disease gene should be, after all, the eventual goal).

Fortunately, even affected Dobes usually do not bleed spontaneously (unlike the case for Scotties, and perhaps Shelties). If they did, there probably would have been a stronger natural selective pressure to remove the disease gene. However, with surgery or moderate trauma, these dogs are at risk for serious bleeding problems (there are numerous reports in the scientific literature addressing this fact, and I am sure that there have been numerous anecdotal reports in this forum as well). So the disease and its causative gene are something that breeders should most certainly want to remove from their breeding programs. This will have to be done with care, however, because we do not believe that it is in the best interest of the breed to limit the gene pool by breeding only clear to clear. By following the guidelines that Kristi at VetGen posted previously (also available at http://www.vetgen.com/), it should be possible to allow the desirable genes to separate from the disease gene over a few generations, while at the same time preventing the occurrence of affected animals.

The mutation that we have found accounts for essentially all of the vWD seen in Dobermans. It is always possible that a rare mutation in combination with the common mutation would cause a bleeder. However, this should be very rare, because the rate of occurrence of *new* mutations for most genes is between one in one hundred thousand to one in a million per generation (Crow, 1993 and references contained therein). If the mutation we have found is eliminated from the breed, von Willebrand's disease will also be eliminated from the breed (ignoring those one in a million new mutations that can never be prevented). The same is true for specific lines, as well. Breed out the disease gene (which can now be detected) and the disease will be gone from the line.

If some portion of this letter needs clarification, please let me know and I will do my best to do so. The other primary investigators for this research are Vilma Yuzbasiyan-Gurkan, Ph.D. and William Schall, DVM at Michigan State University, and George Brewer, MD and Jianping Li in the Department of Human Genetics at the University of Michigan. I hope that you find this letter useful and, once again, Jim, I apologize for its length.

Sincerely,

Pat
Patrick Venta, Ph.D.
College of Veterinary Medicine
Michigan State University

 

Hips and Joints

All large breed dogs are concerned with hip and joint health. There is nothing more difficult than helping your companion get up just to go out to the bathroom, so they don't go where they lie. Gretta my first Dobe, got to the point she couldn't move to take care of herself. Her kidneys were not doing well anymore, and I had to make the hardest choice I had made up to that point in my life. She was suffering deeply, she didn't enjoy her life or time with me. Like me she wished we were hiking in the mountains or playing fetch, even just going for a car ride. Is good joint health important to me? You be it is, I lost a dear friend much too soon because of it. There are a lot of breeders out there who try to build buyer confidence with OFA certifications etc. Yes Hip and bone problems are genetic, yes OFA is important and should be done as soon as the animal is two. Other things to remember are injury, and excessive use at a young age also cause later problems. One of the lesser known problems is Nutrition. It was once thought that we should slow the growth of large breed dogs to curb future problems. They believe that this gives the bones and joints time to develop sufficiently to support the weight of the large animal. Many Large breed formulas such as Science Diet and Iams still hold this philosophy, which is why I no longer feed them. you can see this isn't what nature had in mind, and in nature, animals make it to maturity healthy and strong. This is why I feed Royal Canine Maxi Puppy. They really should sponsor me somehow for as much as I recommend them to all our new homes and everyone I meet. I don't get anything from them though, and that adds credibility to my recommendation. You see in nature, Large animals such as Timber wolves eat a diet very high in protein, (read the labels of whatever feed you choose to begin to understand) and fat. They get grains, greens etc as a byproduct, not directly. Wolves don't run into a corn field and eat the corn, they run in and eat the pheasant. I once believed Dogs to be strict carnivores for this reason. finally one study helped sway my opinion a little. Strict Carnivores, only masticate (chew) vertically (up and down), with sharp pointed dentition. Strict Herbivores have different dentition (teeth) to grind and their jaws move in a side to side type of movement. A true Omnivore then must be able to bite and tear with sharp front teeth (like we have) and chew both vertically and horizontally with some kind of a rear grinding surface (like people). This study showed that although dogs don't have a flat Molar in their mouths for grinding, they do chew both directions. So then I started to think they are omnivores by accident. When they eat the pheasant, or other critters, they are eating the whole animal including it's stomach etc. and all it contains. This is how they do get some grain and roughage in their diet. The diet then is very high in protein and fat. When the mother of wild dogs brings them food to eat, she brings a whole rabbit, she doesn't ration it out on a limited protein and fat system to slow down their growth. So how does nature allow for good skeletal development? They ea the whole rabbit, bones and all. They get tendons, joints and all important parts. What do joints contain in healthy animals? Glucosamine and Chondroitin Sulfate. People have just now clued in to what nature provided all along. By supplementing the "joint fluid" in their diets, they can develop at a normal pace and still be healthy. They can run and play, but don't work on high jumping type exercises until they are fully developed. If you get them the proper nutrients, their bodies will do wonders, and they will have good joint health. In addition, verify that the lines your new pup comes from are genetically prone to good hips and joints. Interested in stem cell research? Consider that carnivores consume a large amount of living bone marrow in the wild with every meal, from many species. Makes you wonder huh?

Cardio

just as in people, if you come from a family full of heart problems, you are likely to have heart problems as well, it is the same for your dogs. There are many types of heart problems in dogs, and generally the words get very long and hard to understand. What you need to know, is things that deviate from normal are not good. Hearts that are too big, too small, or have irregular beats or valve problems are not good. Only a Vet who specializes in cardiology can help you know and understand all of this. There are many tests and opinions out there on cardio health. My opinion is an ultrasound to determine structure, size etc is important as well as an EKG to determine rhythm etc. A Holter Monitor test may be the single most important test as it shows things otherwise unseen. I also believe in researching pedigrees to identify health risks. Again, bad hearts are genetically influenced but can come from poor diet and exercise just as happens in people. A well fed active dog can live a very long happy life even if he was predisposed to poor cardiac health, just as it is with us. Feed them right, and exercise them, select them from the best lines possible, and you and your companion will make far more happy memories.

Eye health

There are as many eye problems as there are cardiac problems in dogs. Again the names get very confusing and people are just now trying to understand it all just as with people. Certain kinds of blindness or vision problems can be influenced genetically, as well as nutritionally or due to injury. Very few vets specialize in ophthalmology, and very few people enlist their help and opinions. Again many breeders try to build buyer confidence with evaluations and tests, that I believe have some value, but don't just assume that because a dog has had it's health tests performed that it will produce perfect puppies. Some things are genetically influenced, but we don't have a genetic "test" for eye trouble, and if we did you should test the puppy not the parent. What the "tests" consist of are evaluations of the eye structure, at the time the dog is examined. This is good information, but does not guarantee the offspring will never have eye trouble. Again, feed well, exercise the eyes while they develop by walking in all kinds of lighting conditions including nighttime, and have the dog evaluated if you notice problems.

First Aid

First Aid is exactly that, the first thing you do until you can get help or get to a Vet. Many vets will teach a basic first aid class to your training clubs or groups if you just ask them, they are pretty good about that. There are also a lot of great books and articles to read, and you could even volunteer at your local vet. Everyone will need a basic kit, and there are many out there to choose from. Most important is that you know how to use what you have. All the fancy kits in the world won't help at all if you don't know how to use them. Spend some time learning the important points that you are qualified to take care of. You will need to know how to stop bleeding in different areas, how to immobilize broken bones, treat for shock, dehydration, blood loss, insect, animal and reptile bites. Learn about allergic reactions etc. I could type all night on what to do, but it is best to attend a class put on by your vet so you can do what it is they want you to do on the way. Here is a link to some of the better kits I have found. I like the pro kit, but don't bother getting it unless you really know how to use all of that stuff. If you can't see yourself using sutures or staplers on open wounds, why have them? Unless you are going to be around others that do know how to use them. The other thing is, don't be afraid to use the stuff in your kit, it can always be replaced and replenished, always have extra gauze, tape, and vet wrap around, you will use a lot of it! http://www.outdoorsafety.net/sportingdogkits.htm

Great article on puppy development and behavior Bear in mind that this is written on raising companion dogs, if you plan on doing protection training or protection sports, many of the things in this article will be counter productive, for example with Protection prospect puppies we want to build drive, focus and confidence through games like tog-o-war etc :

Dog Development

When dogs are young, they learn much

and what is learned has a lasting impact.

(Sue St. Gelais, Ontario, Canada)

All dogs, regardless of breed, pass through various stages as they grow and develop,

physically, mentally, and psychologically. Psychologists use the term critical period to

describe a specific time in a dog's life when certain experiences have a lasting effect upon

their psychological development. Understanding these critical periods and a dog's stages of

development will better help you to understand your foster dog's behavior and how to handle

him during these special times.

Neonatal Period (0-13 days)

§ Puppy’s brain is not yet highly developed. He responds to the mother’s licking for

elimination; responds to warmth and food. Puppy’s reflexes are slow.

ê Make sure the puppy is safe, warm, and well fed.

Transitional Period (13-20 days)

§ Puppy’s eyes begin to open. He starts to walk and attempts to explore his surroundings.

§ By 19 days, puppy’s ears begin to open and he will startle by noises.

§ By 20 days puppy’s teeth begin to emerge

Puppy Toddlers (3 - 6 Weeks)

This is when the social period in your puppy’s life begins. The puppies emerge on their own

from the litter and venture into the surrounding environment. Gentle handling by you will help

him to form a trusting relationship with humans in order to become man’s best friend.

During the toddler period puppies learn basic behavioral patterns specific to dogs:

§ While playing, they practice different body postures, learning what the postures mean and

how they affect their mother and litter mates.

§ They learn what it is like to bite and be bitten, what barking and other vocalizations mean

and how to use them to establish social relationships with other dogs.

From the age of five weeks, the mother teaches her puppies basic manners. They learn to be

submissive to her leadership and what behaviors are acceptable. If necessary, she growls,

snarls, or snaps at them as a form of discipline. When weaning the litter, for instance, the

mother will discipline her puppies so that they will leave her alone. Because the mother

disciplines them in a way that they clearly understand, after a few repetitions, the puppies will

respond to a mere glare from her.

n A 5 week old puppy can begin to understand housetraining rules.

Housetraining Rules (Marty Smith & Race Foster, Housetraining Your Puppy)

Rule Number One:

This is The Most Important Rule – If you don’t catch your puppy doing it then just clean it up

and forget about it!

Rule Number Two:

Praise your puppy when things go right. Don’t let this be a situation where your only action is

saying "No" when they are caught in the midst of using the wrong area. If they do it right – let

them know!

Methods of housetraining

Crate Training (call Claudia & Bob at 539-6561 evenings to borrow a crate)

A popular method of housetraining involves the use of a crate or cage. The often-stated

reasoning is that the animal is placed in a cage that is just large enough to be a bed. Dogs

don’t like to soil their beds for they would be forced to lay in the mess. It works and while in

these confines most pups will control their bladder and bowels for a longer time than we

would expect. Start out with no more than 45 minutes or an hour at a time and gradually

increase the time your puppy spends in the crate. If your dog has an ‘accident’

(urinates/defecates in the crate), just clean it up and forget about it. You do not want to create

an aversion to the crate and it is not the dog’s fault. You have left him/her in the crate too

long.

During housetraining, whenever the puppy is inside the home but can’t be watched, place

him/her in the crate. This might be while you are cooking, reading to the children or even

away from the home. The last thing you do before you put the puppy in the crate is take him

outside to his favorite spot. The first thing you do when you take the animal out of the crate is

another trip outside. No food or water goes in the crate, just a blanket and maybe a chew toy

to occupy his time. Overnight is definitely crate time but remember to gradually increase the

time your puppy spends in the crate (see above). As your faith in the puppy grows, leave him

out for longer and longer periods of time.

Most people do not recognize an important advantage of crate training. It does more than just

stop the animal from messing in the house. It also teaches the puppy something very

important. The puppy learns that when the urge to urinate or defecate occurs, he can hold it.

Just because the pup feels like he needs to relieve himself, the pup learns that he doesn’t

have to. This is thought to be the main reason why puppies that have gone through crate

training have fewer mistakes later on.

Constant Supervision

This method involves no papers, pads or crates. Rather you choose to spend all the time

necessary with the puppy. This works very well for people who live and work in their homes,

retired persons or in situations where the owners are always with the animal. Whenever they

see the puppy doing his "pre-potty pattern" they hustle him outside. It is important that the

dog is watched at all times and that no mistakes are allowed to occur. This method has less

room for error as there is nothing like a cage to restrict the animal’s urges. When she is taken

outside, watch the puppy closely and as soon as all goes as planned, she should be praised

and then brought back inside immediately. You want the dog to understand that the purpose

for going outside was to go to the bathroom. Don’t start playing, make it a trip for a reason.

Verbal communications help this method and we’ll discuss them soon. For those with the

time, this is a good method. We still recommend having a crate available as a backup when

the owners have to be away from the animal.

Verbal cues

Specific verbal communications will also help the two of you understand what’s desired. It’s

an excellent idea to always use a word when it’s time to head to the bathroom. We like

"Outside?". Remember that whenever you use a verbal command or signal, it’s important that

everybody in the family always uses the same word in the same way. Think of the word

"Outside" in this situation not only as a question you’re asking the pup but also as an

indication that you want to go there. Some dogs may get into the habit of going to the door

when they want to go outside. This is great when it happens but it isn’t as common as some

believe. We’ve found that it is better to use verbal commands to initiate this sort of activity

rather than waiting for the puppy to learn this behavior on his own. It seems like your

consistent use of a word or phrase like "Outside" will cause the puppy to come to you rather

than the door when he needs to go outside. The pup more quickly sees you as part of the

overall activity of getting him where he needs to go. We believe this is much better.

Once outside we try to encourage them to get on with the act in question. You can use "Do

It", "Potty" or "Hurry Up". As soon as they eliminate it is very important to praise then with a

"Good Dog" and then come back inside immediately. Again, make this trip that started

outside with a specific word "Outside" be for a purpose. If we are taking the pup out to play

with a ball or go for a walk we won’t use this word even if we know they will eliminate while

we are outside.

When an "accident" happens

One of the key issues in housetraining is to follow Rule Number One: If you don’t catch your

puppy doing it then there is nothing you can do. We don’t care what someone else may tell

you or what you read, if you find a mess that was left when you weren’t there, clean it up and

forget it.

Discipline won’t help because unless you catch the puppy in the act, he/she will have no idea

what the scolding is for. Your puppy has urinated and defecated hundreds of times before he

met you. Mom or someone else always cleaned it up. Nobody made a fuss before and they

will not put the punishment, regardless of its form, together with something they’ve done

without incident numerous times before. Especially if they did it more than 30 seconds ago!

Puppies are just like children. Unless something was really fun (and a repetitious act like

going to the bathroom isn’t), they are not thinking about what they did in the past. They’re

thinking about what they can do in the future. At this point in their life a puppy’s memory is

very, very poor.

Anyway, let’s face it. It was your fault not the pup's. If you had been watching, you would

have noticed the puppy suddenly walking or running around in circles with his nose down

smelling for the perfect spot to go to the bathroom. It’s just as consistent as the taxi cab driver

behind you honking immediately when the light changes. The puppy will show the same

behavior every time. It may vary a little from pup to pup but they always show their own "prepotty

pattern" before the act.

The same should be said as to your first reaction when you actually catch them in the act of

urinating or defecating. It’s your fault, you weren’t watching for or paying attention to the

signals. Don’t get mad. Quickly, but calmly pick them up and without raising your voice

sternly say "No". Carry them outside. It will help to push their tail down while you are carrying

them as this will often help them to stop urinating or defecating any more.

They’re going to be excited when you get them outside, but stay there with them a while and

if they finish the job reward them with simple praise like "Good Dog".

In the disciplining of dogs, just like in physics, every action has a reaction and for training

purposes these may not be beneficial! If you overreact and severely scold or scare the heck

out of a puppy for making what is in your mind a mistake, your training is probably going

backwards. With housetraining this is especially difficult for them to understand as they are

carrying out a natural body function. Carried one step farther is the idea of rubbing a puppy’s

nose into a mistake he made, whether you caught him or not. In the limits of a puppy’s

intelligence, please explain to us the difference of rubbing his nose in the mess he left in your

kitchen an hour ago versus the one the neighbor’s dog left in the park two weeks ago. If the

dog were smart enough to figure all of this out, the only logical choice would be to

permanently quit going to the bathroom. Punishment rarely speeds up housetraining. Often it

makes the dog nervous or afraid every time he/she needs to go to the bathroom.

Feeding and housetraining

The feeding schedule you use can help or hinder housetraining. You’ll soon notice that

puppies will need to go outside immediately after they wake and also within 30 to 40 minutes

after eating. Be consistent when and what you feed the animal so you can predict when they

need to relieve themselves. Plan your trips outside around these patterns.

All of this may seem simple and it really is. The keys are that it will take time and you must be

consistent. And, of course, you must never lose your temper or even get excited.

Spontaneous or submissive urination

Puppies may spontaneously urinate when excited. This may be when they first see you, at

meeting a new dog or when they are scared. It is often referred to as submissive or

excitement urination. Do not discipline the puppy for this, as it is something they cannot

control. Simply ignore it and clean up the mess. If you don’t overreact, they will usually

outgrow this between 4 and 7 months of age.

n A 6 week old puppy can be introduced to some basic rules of living with you. Physically

remove the puppy from dangerous situations or places where he shoudn’t go to. Reward

him with cuddling and praising rather than food.

Clapping hands to encourage puppy to approach you for cuddling and warmth as well as

following you can be done individually away from litter mates. Try to avoid excessive noises

and other sudden changes.

Socialization Period (7 - 12 Weeks)

n At 7 weeks, puppies can learn and what they learn will have a lasting impact. Everything

he comes in contact with will make a lasting impression upon him as it never will again!

Not only will he learn, but, he will learn whether he is taught or not. Though he has a short

attention span, what things he learns are learned permanently and resistant to change.

Therefore, you need to be careful about what your puppy is learning at this time. Your puppy

is very anxious to learn how you want him to behave and react, and he needs to be shown

what is expected of him in his new role as your pet.

There are rules you will expect your puppy to obey. Establish those rules NOW while

behaviors are easy to establish. For instance, how your pet interacts with you is determined

during puppyhood. What he does now is what he will likely do later. So, don't allow your

puppy to do things which will be unacceptable when he becomes a dog. During this time, you

and your puppy will also begin to know and understand each other. You will get to know

about your puppy's particular temperament and personality - whether he is strong-willed or

eager to please, gentle or rambunctious, shy or outgoing, and just what else makes him the

endearing individual that he is.

For the puppy, this is both an exciting and somewhat confusing time. There is a whole new

world of things to learn about and all sorts of new experiences to digest. Your puppy needs to

learn how to interact with humans and other animals who live with them. Puppies must be

able to adapt to the patterns and tenor of their future homes. And you are the one helping him

with this by laying a groundwork for a trusting, happy mutually satisfying relationship.

n During the Socialization period, there is a fear imprint period from 8 - 11 weeks. During

this time, any traumatic, painful or frightening experiences will have a more lasting impact

on your pup than they would if they occurred at any other time.

An unpleasant trip to the veterinarian or a long and stressful car ride, for instance, at this time

could forever make your dog apprehensive about veterinarians and frightened of cars. To

avoid this, take some treats and a toy with you to the veterinarian. Take the puppy frequently

on brief car rides with you and stop for a short walk somewhere interesting for the dog – even

if it’s just a 5 minute walk after your shopping trip.

Remember, dogs are social animals. To become acceptable companions, they need to

interact with you, your family, and other people and dogs during the Socialization Period.

Dogs that are denied socialization during this critical period often become unpredictable

because they are fearful or aggressive. It is during this time, that your dog needs to have

positive experiences with people and dogs. Take your dog to places where other people walk

their dogs. Begin by taking him there when there are few other dogs and people. Give him

time to get used to new places. Make sure he is secure. Schedule ‘doggie play time’ with

other dog owners in the park. If you have children that visit only occasionally, have your

puppy meet children as often as you can. If you live alone, make an effort to have friends visit

you, especially members of the opposite sex so that your dog will become accustomed to

them. Go someplace fun!

Seniority Classification Period (12-16 Weeks)

n At 12-16 weeks your dog will begin to test you to see who the packleader is going to be.

He'll begin to bite you, in play or as a real challenge to your authority. Such behavior is

natural in the pack and not necessarily undesirable. It is important, at this stage, that you

establish your position as pack leader, and not just another sibling. Other behaviors, such as

grabbing at the leash, will be observed, and all are attempts to dominate you. Biting , in

particular though, should always be discouraged. Therefore, you should not wrestle or play

tug of war. Such play is aggressive-inducing. What you see as a fun game may be perceived

by your dog as a situation in which he has been allowed to dominate. Wrestling, of course,

communicates to your puppy that he is allowed to bite you. Tug of war sets you up in a

dominance confrontation over an object. He learns that he can keep objects away from you.

During tug of war games, puppies will often growl. Growling is a dominance vocalization,

designed to warn another pack member that they better not confront the growler or he will

bite. Puppies see these games as situations in which they have been allowed to dominate.

They do not understand that these are games designed by humans to entertain them.

Continue to play with your dog during this period, but make it clear that no mouthing of your

body is allowed and when your dog does mouthe, you respond with a quick and sharp "NO!"

or "No Bite!" Play that does not get rough is best. If you cannot keep the dog from getting

overly excited during a game and he persists in biting at you, don't play that way.

For these reasons, this is the stage when serious training should begin. Training establishes

your pack leadership in a manner that your puppy will understand. By training your puppy,

you will learn how to get him to respond to commands designed to show that you are in

charge.

Flight Instinct Period (4 - 8 Months)

n At 4 - 8 months the puppies become more independent of their owners and are likely to

venture off on their own.

Puppies that have always come when called or stayed close to their owners will now ignore

them, often running in the opposite direction. This period can last from several weeks to

months. How you handle your puppy's refusal to come or stay with you will determine

whether or not he will be trustworthy off leash Therefore, keep your puppy on leash when this

period arises and keep him on leash until he readily returns to you or shows no inclination to

leave you.

Releasing an unleashed dog in an unconfined area that is not well trained off leash may be

dangerous to your dog. Even well trained dogs can make mistakes or become distracted by

something in the environment so that they do not respond to their owners' commands.

So, how do you respond when your puppy suddenly develops the urge to bolt? First, you

must, for his safety, put a leash or a long line on your dog whenever you are not in a confined

area. Second, work hard on training your puppy to come on command. Use the recall game

and the spontaneous recall. When walking your dog, suddenly run backwards and encourage

your puppy to come. If your dog still continues to bolt or run away, then your dog probably

does not view you as the dominant figure in this relationship!

Adolescence Period (5 - 18 months)

n Adolescence can appear in smaller dogs as early as 5 months. In larger breeds, it can

start as late as 9 or 10 months. In giant breeds, adolescence doesn't take place until 12

to 18 months. In general, the larger the dog, the longer it will take to physically mature.

Some breeds can remain adolescents until they are two and a half, or three years old.

Adolescence is expressed in male dogs by scent marking behavior. Scent marking behavior

is stimulated by the release of testosterone into the dog's system. At this time, males may

become macho. Male dogs may become less friendly and even somewhat aggressive to

other male dogs. He may begin lifting his leg in the house. He may become very interested in

girls, tend to roam, and certainly not interested in listening to you! Some males at this age

become totally unruly.

In females, adolescence is marked by the onset of the heat cycle, estrus. During this three

week period, your dog could become pregnant. So, keep her away from all male dogs.

Female dogs exhibit erratic behavior during estrus. Some get real moody and insecure.

Others become quite bold or even aggressive.

Spaying/neutering your dog will help to alleviate these problems!

Adolescence is a very difficult time for pet owners. They are surprised when their cute little

puppy becomes a free and independent thinker. Adolescence is certainly a good time to start

(or reinstitute) rigorous training. You must work hard NOW to mold the dog of your dreams.

Establish yourself as the leader of the pack. Be realistic about your expectations. You cannot

expect young dogs to grow up overnight. Learn to appreciate your dog's adolescence for it is

a truly wonderful time. At this time of their lives, dogs are very energetic and exuberant in

their responses. They can be full of beans, but still, delightful playmates. You as the owner

must learn to channel that energy and exuberance into learning, working, exercising, and

playing games. It is not too late to to train (or retrain) your dog to help him to become a long lasting

companion.

Second Fear Imprint Period (6 - 14 Months)

The Second Fear Imprint Period occurs as dogs enter adolescence and seems more

common in males. It is often referred to as adolescent shyness.

Your dog may suddenly become reluctant to approach something new or suddenly become

afraid of something familiar. This behavior can be very frustrating to the owner and difficult to

understand because its onset is so sudden and, seemingly, unprovoked. If you notice this

behavior, it is important to avoid the two extremes in response: Don't force him to do or

approach something frightening to him and don't coddle or baby him. To get through

situations that make your dog fearful, be patient, kind, and understanding. Desensitize him to

the object or situation by gradually introducing him to it and using food rewards and praise to

entice him to confront the fearful object or situation. Do not coddle or reassure him in any way

that will encourage his fearful behavior. Do not correct him either. Simply make light of it and

encourage him give him food rewards as he begins to deal with his fear better. Make sure

you lavishly praise his attempts! This phase will pass!

Mature Adulthood (1 - 4 Years)

During this period your dog may again become aggressive and assertive. For instance, he

may become more turf-protective, by barking when someone comes to the door. Temper his

protective behaviors by teaching him how to accept strangers into your home. His friendly

play with other dogs may escalate to fighting with other dogs. Teach you dog to ignore other

dogs that he sees if he can't be friendly towards them. Take him to places where there will be

a few dogs at first and train him there. Then, train him in areas with more and more dogs.

Next, allow him to interact with non threatening dogs. Puppies and female adult dogs are

good choices,

if he is a male. Always praise his positive efforts to interact or if he displays no reaction.

Also, be alert to the posturing of aggressive behaviors. Watch for circling behaviors, walking

on toes, stiff tail wags, and tense facial expressions.

Adulthood is also a time that your dog may again test your position as pack leader. If he

does, handle him firmly, suspend any rough play that may be giving him the idea that he can

dominate you, and continue with training. Proceed with training in a matter-of-fact, no

nonsense manner and your dog will become a reasonably obedient dog. Give him lots of

positive attention for his efforts!

Summary:

Remember - All dogs are different!

Some will not exhibit the behaviors discussed here and others will pass through them at

varying rates with smaller dogs maturing faster than large dogs. In addition, other problems

may arise during puppyhood, adolescence, and early adulthood which are not the result of

the developmental period itself, but are caused by something in the environment or the dog's

basic personality. Understanding, training, and perhaps professional help with training are the

keys to success. Your foster puppy/dog needs you to play a role in his development so you

can help him to become a loving, well –adjusted dog and companion who greatly deserves to

be adopted into a new home.

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